That sounds like fun....but I think I'll have to pass. Any extra money will go into the rally car.

Per

Sean, that makes sense and I know you're right on the gearbox/ratio issue...I'm running a stock early 5-speed. Most stages are done in 3rd with occasional downshifts to second (and sometimes even 1st for those STPR uphill U-turns) with occasional upshifts to 4th. So..what's a good and reasonably che...

Kim and Stig are still cooking along fine. I think if I didn't have this POS Neon rallycross car or if the car was closer, I would have already bought it from Mr Crazyswede.

Per

idon'tneedthisidon'tneedthisidon'tneedthisidon'tneedthisidon'tneedthisidon'tneedthisidon'tneedthisidon'tneedthisidon'tneedthisidon'tneedthisidon'tneedthisidon'tneedthisidon'tneedthisidon'tneedthisidon'tneedthisidon'tneedthisidon'tneedthisidon'tneedthisidon'tneedthisidon'tneedthisidon'tneedthis :rant...

Thanks for the input...just random musing.

mount received. Looks pretty bad-ass. I'll install soon.

Per

So...I'm thinking about a light-pressure turbo set-up on my car. The B engine is fairly stock....9.7:1ish compression, ported head, mild street cam. Let's say I wanted 5 or so pounds of boost. How would I go about doing that? Basic B-motor turbo parts? My thinking is that low pressure turbo with rel...

Ok, that makes a bit more sense. 170 hp is probably 130-140 at the wheels depending on the powertrain loss (which is anybody's guess on one of these). It's also in the ballpark of what I'm seeing (somewhere around 120) with poorly optimized CIS, self-ported head, milder street cam. SAE is just one o...

Are you sure that was wheel horsepower? I'm not sure that I buy the numbers if they are at the wheels. Older tuning was typically done with at the crank numbers.

(based upon what a modern 2.0 liter 16-valve engine puts out at the wheels when tuned well.)

Wow, excellent metal work.

Should be completely do-able for Rally WV.

Per

Yea, I'm not sure what was up with the ftp site, so I deleted that post.

The gearbox is fine, it's the engine mounts that keep loosening up. Now the L one is bolted down with with a nyloc, double nut and thread locker.

It's fine for street use, but big bumps still cause the nose of the engine/transmission to bounce---pulling it out of gear.

I've ordered the mount from this thread to see if it solves the problem.

I would think firmer. thanks!

I have one of those. I also have 4 extra Shelbys that I brought to STPR, but no one brought me a tranny (or a transmission) in trade. So..they were hauled back to FL.