Tow Rig / Shop Truck

SwedeSport · Postby **SwedeSport** » Sun Jan 16, 2011 6:56 pm

4WD is not working yet. I have been thru everything in the electronic system and tested it all. The shift button works (even the illumination). Its telling the shift control module to run the electronic shift motor, which its doing. The hubs were converted to WARN manual units due to the problematic vacuum controlled automatic hub engagement. Went to the Ford dealer to pick the brains of factory trained techs. They are in agreeance that the shifting system is functioning as it should. Next step is to pull the transfer case and pull it apart. Seems with 308k on the odo, its possible that the TC is worn out to the point that it overshifts, the motor senses the overshoot, and trips it back to the default position 2H. I am going to attempt this myself since the parts to rebuild should run about 2-300 bucks. I wanted to swap in a manual shift TC but there is alot of parts to change to do so.

I did manage to get the upper lift frame procured , and repainted. Its on the truck as well as the lift arm and all new gr8 hardware. I pulled the headlights off the other plow frame, and rebuilt those with a set of Sylvania Performance sealed beam bulbs. The plastic tabs inside the housing were busted up, and a few were missing. I took one of the good tabs and made a silicone mold of the piece, and re-cast a few of them in white resin. I found some rubber discs and glued them on. I had to repair a few screw posts that had busted off. I glued them with epoxy and used longer screws to get a fresh bite. The main swivel bolt had to be cut off and replaced , but I found farm plow bolts that functioned as a suitable replacement. I metalworked the swivel pocket to make them fit the bolt tighter.

I found an OK set of hydraulic cylinders for the power angle and cleaned them up and repainted them. The pump should be here in a few days as well as the wire harness and controller for in the cab. I picked up a new set of hoses and quick connect couplers. hope to have this plow operating in time for spring.

SwedeSport · Postby **SwedeSport** » Tue Feb 08, 2011 11:20 am

Update on the plow installation. All of the bracketry and associated hardware is on the truck, the hydraulic system is up and running. I need to put one last bolt in the chassis mount, and the framework is 100% I wasnt happy with the way the bracket snugged against the frame and was hoping that under a little stress it would settle in closer to the rail. Another thing to note is that grade 8 hardware cant take the thumping from ramming snow mounds, so I replaced some of the hardware with grade 5. Meyer actually specifies grade 2 hardware in some instances. They want the bolt to break before your frame does.

Tackled the wiring about a week ago, choosing to mount the Slick Stick controller on the front of the bench seat so that I wont have to lean forward out of a seated position to work it. When its not in use it comes out of its mount and tucks neatly under the seat. Still need to complete the pedestal for the joystick. Installed a heavy continuous duty solenoid and 4g wiring underhood. And ran the harness out to the motor and such. Im order to finalize the electrical, I have to wire up the headlights. I could probably get away without them considering the truck has a 3" body lift which puts the headlights above the moldboard in the full up position. I still plan to hook them up, but Im going to run them in tandem instead of defeating the factory lighting when the plow lights are hooked up. Maybe put it on a toggle so I can defeat the plow lights when the blade is not on the truck.

I have pushed a little snow at my house and around the shop with it, but have yet to set out for profit. Hopefully I can make some money to pay for this thing as I am out of money. I have not really had much work at my printing biz since before Christmas, and I was hoping to float the bills with the plow truck. So far Its just put me in deeper. Wish for some snow for me!

hhhh

Postby **Jordan** » Tue Feb 08, 2011 11:45 am

You covered up that nice shiny plow motor with that rusty ol plow

Postby **Luke** » Tue Feb 08, 2011 11:55 am

You should try to hook up with a few of the local landscapers to be an on-call for plowing. A lot of them have contacts in the winter to keep local business clear etc, but when it really dumps they don't have enough trucks to fulfill all the obligations, so they subcontract people in. You will usually be covered under the landscapers insurance too. A bunch of my friends do that and use vacation/sick days at their regular jobs when it snows a lot and make some extra cash and you dont even have to really deal with the business side of things (getting clients etc)

SwedeSport · Postby **SwedeSport** » Tue Feb 08, 2011 12:10 pm

I have 2 of them. The one on the truck is kinda beat up, but its ready to push snow, and fits the truck. The other one is in better shape, but I need to get a different A-frame for it to fit in the mounts. The tab spacing on the truck is 23 1/2 inches and the A-frame is 16 1/2 inch.

I really needed to get it up and running in order to get out there before the snow is gone. Im hoping for one last hurrah before the season is out. I was expecting a "learning curve" to pushing snow, and anticipated hitting a few curbs and landscaping etc. I kinda put the rusty one on there as a sacrificial lamb so to speak. Ill spend the fall next year refurbishing the other blade assy and preparing it to use next season. Its pretty rusty too, but Ill tear it apart, blast and paint all the brackets, and reassemble it with new hardware. I'll reskin the face of the blade with some 11g sheet metal and repaint it with Meyer sno-flo paint.

On another note the plow frame that I got the first time around donated a few parts to my setup, including the lights, and the lift arm. The rest was posted on CL and sold to a guy with the truck that it fits. So at least I didnt get stuck with that.

I have made arrangements with the local guys to be on call as a sub once the truck is ready. Let them deal with the BS clerical shit and Ill just drive the truck. Since Im so broke in the winter, Im trying to take over the mowing/plowing duties at my shop in exchange for a few months free rent during the tee shirt off season.

Geoff · Postby **Geoff** » Tue Feb 08, 2011 12:33 pm

You know that by finalizing your plow installation in February you've guaranteed the rest of the winter to be mild....

You need this hat

Postby **Jordan** » Tue Feb 08, 2011 12:48 pm

Geoff wrote:You know that by finalizing your plow installation in February you've guaranteed the rest of the winter to be mild....

You need this hat

Lets hope so.... I bet the ski resorts are having a great season though.

Geoff · Postby **Geoff** » Wed Feb 09, 2011 2:21 pm

A few weeks ago the local mountain (Sunapee) said they already had their best year since '07/'08 Of course when you charge $70 for a full day weekend ticket and ten years ago you charged $23.....

Crazyswede · Postby **Crazyswede** » Wed Feb 09, 2011 2:53 pm

why would I spend $70 on a full day ticket when I could buy a half day ticket for $69.99.

SwedeSport · Postby **SwedeSport** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 10:18 am

Been a while since I updated the project threads, so I figured I would touch base here.

It was a long winter without much wrench turning. The only project to get any attention was the plow install. And of course the minute I get it working the snow stops. So needless to say I have a bunch of loot invested in the rig, but was unable to get any return on it this year. This weekend I will be removing the plow to store it for the summer, better luck next year I guess.

The fog light wiring is going to be the next project to tackle on this beast. I decided to keep the 55 watt bulbs and forego the uprated ones. Fluids, filters, plugs, wires, and vac hoses are all set to be replaced as well as the serp belt and idlers. The drivetrain will get some TLC in the form of new U joints. The transfer case still has not been rebuilt, but that can likely wait til the fall. I'm shopping for the deeper tranny pan to increase the capacity of the auto trans.

I only plan to tow to maybe 2 events this year, likely Weatherly Hillclimb, and Speed Trials at Maxton NC. But I still need to find a good deal on a clean used trailer. Preferrably one thats open in the middle, so it can serve as a lift of sorts.

SwedeSport · Postby **SwedeSport** » Tue Jul 19, 2011 5:02 pm

Recently acquired the cab visor that I had been looking for. Had to strip the ugly green paint off of it since the clearcoat was peeling. Hosed it with some Duplicolor and cleared it with the same. Scuffed it with some ScotchBrite to try to mimic the patina of the truck. It should all blend together once I scrub and compound everything. Purchased some stainless screws to attach to the truck. I plan to repaint the very top of the roof since there is some clearcoat issues and some bubbling rust. I'll repaint it white out of a spray can. This is in an attempt to reduce the temps in the cab of my black truck. (even a few degrees will make a difference.) Hopefully I can locate a cool set of cab marker lights for the roof and work on the install of that as well.

Sprayed the lower section of the truck with a medium charcoal paint, and plan to spray the upper accent recess with a smoke silver paint. Purchased some 1/4 inch pinstripe for the lower part and 1/8 inch pinstripe for the upper part. My vinyl graphics guy is working on some Swedesport Motors logos for the doors and the tailgate, as well as some other graphics for my screen printing business. I'll post a few pics when complete, but here is a quickie of the lower accent.

Geoff · Postby **Geoff** » Wed Jul 20, 2011 11:08 am

SwedeSport wrote: Scuffed it with some ScotchBrite to try to mimic the patina of the truck.

SwedeSport · Postby **SwedeSport** » Thu Sep 15, 2011 11:03 am

Recently I got some more work done on the Tow Rig. Installed the cab visor, added some ventshades, and re-upholstered the headliner. Touched up some paint flaws. Dupli Color Universal Black is a perfect match. Scored some nice mirrors in the U-pull it, and sandblasted them. Painted them with Rust Oleum bedliner. I'm having a set of door handles powder coated black as well, and the polished aluminum windshield trim will get blacked out when I replace the glass next season. I cleaned and degreased, and then sanded the whole truck with 1000 grit, then 1500 grit. I used a right angle buffer and compound to bring the paint up to a decent shine. I need to wax it yet though. The bedsides need some rust repair and paint, but the rest of the truck looks pretty good despite some dings and dents.

The rear suspension mounts finally gave up the ghost, one of them completely seperated from the frame, so I spent the last month refurbishing that. Stripped both sides to the frame rails, cleaned and painted the frame with bedliner. Purchased all new mounting brackets, and Gr8 hardware. All the bracketry that needed to be recycled was cleaned, de-rusted and hosed with some paint. I cleaned the leaf springs really well and coated them too. I replaced all the rear suspension bushings with Poly units while I was in there. I only need a few more misc pieces of hardware to install the junkyard sway bars I cleaned up and poly'd. Hopefully I can get that done next. I found some nice hooks that work quite nicely in the plow mount.

SwedeSport · Postby **SwedeSport** » Thu Sep 15, 2011 11:12 am

More pics

Shopping for a race trailer this weekend. One like the dirt track modified racers use. 18ft or so, with a tire rack and a large storage box. I have seen some really cool ones that have panel sides on them. I live a few miles from Grandview Speedway, and there are alot of locals who race there. Should be relatively easy to find.