Got my plates from the laser cutter today. Did a fit up of the bolt pattern and outer perimeter.


Check the ring clearance.

Built a weldment jig. 1 1/2 inch Blanchard mild steel plate with the gear case bolt pattern. Added studs for ease of assembly.

Some magnets to collect the washers and fasteners when not in use.

Added a back purge feature to the weld jig. Edge drilled the plate to about the center of the hump. Drilled a nozzle perpendicular to the plate and packed it full of stainless steel scouring pad material. The back purge will help when welding .063 to .25 plate.

will you be preheating the assembly before you weld?

Crazyswede wrote:will you be preheating the assembly before you weld?

Did not plan on it. I'm wondering if that would relieve the stresses in the material? After a light sand of the laser flashing, she sits nice and flat as is.
The idea is that the jig plate will keep her flat. The 1/4" material will be welded on that edge, so it should not take that much heat to get good penetration.
The hump is a nominal .065, but after forming, it is stretched thinner on the major radius. The back purge will help keep the metal on the backside happier. Must mind the torch, or I'll have a have a hole in it quicker than a Saab nut picks up on the word "FREE".

Celebrating the Country's birthday by building some shit and drinking some good beer. Happy 4th everyone.

Where's your FEA?

Parts harvesting a 99 with the 9000 tent!

Very interesting. Rain or sun protection? If sun I'm not sure if the greenhouse effect would drive you out? In the Pacific Northwest we would have that setup for camping on the 4th of July weekend to bring our own blue sky.

Geoff wrote:Where's your FEA?

I got no stresses. It is all blue, because it is fully constrained by the strong back. Well that is what the model shows me.
Did some late night welding. Started by, let's do some tacks and see how the tooling works out. Next thing I know, I'm finishing up the bungs.


The hump welded up nice, but I did have a F-up on the bottom stitch weld Popped a hole in the thin material. The stud, washer and nut kinda cock blocked me visually and filler rod. Got distracted and that is all it took to over heat and a hole. WTF?
We will see what the second one brings me.

Dennis, AN-6?

Jon1 wrote:Dennis, AN-6?

AN-8. Fits better with the pump inlet outlet sizes.
AN stuff is the way to go IMO.

Drove it to work, then gave it a bath. The herd has been trouble free lately

Like cooking pancakes, the second one almost always comes out nicer.

Ripped the t5 out of a 96 900T a buddy was parting out. Too bad, it was a nice car. Just needed a new engine...

Temps finally cooled off (100 + for 9 days) to 80 yesterday so I tore the dash out of the SPG. Going back together today.

I finally got my Skandix / Simons exhaust installed on the rallycross '85 900T over the weekend, and did some troublshooting on an intermittent no-charge from the alternator. I'm hoping that cleaning all the lake crud out of the voltage regulator and blowing out the housing was all the was giving it trouble. The dry lake bed I was on is super alkaline, almost like Black Rock City, and wreaks havoc on all sorts of things... we'll see.

I bought a nice 3" to 2.5" tapered reducer and welded in a stainless flex coupling to connect to my 3" downpipe, then it's 2.5" back to the Skandix exhaust. It fit nicely up into the muffler well and I got back some ground clearance compared to my old side pipe setup.

I'll get a video up when I get a chance - the exhaust note with the tube headers is very non-C900 sounding, but it sounds really nice!

The tail pips cants off to the left kind of funny, the little bridge tube connecting the tail pipe to the back of the muffler needs a bit more angle to it to straighten it out, but since I don't have to aim it through an Airflow bumper opening, I don't particularly care!