squaab99t wrote:Used, but new to me shop tool. Picked it up off the bay for a very fair price for the machine and shipping.
AllFab weld positioner with foot controller.

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First project was to build a hand prop for the turntable. Welded the vertical pole to the base using the machine. Kinda guessed at the speed by holding the torch against the part and dry run visual.
A bit of a re-train of the muscle memory; do not drag the torch hand.

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Not sure how much I will use it, but is sure is a dream to weld with.

Really neat tool, I am sure you will find some use for it.

Been meaning to build something similar for torch hand stability ever since I saw one on weldingtipsandtricks. Nice welds!

I'm in the market for a lathe (used) and figured you guys might have some suggestions on what brands/features, tooling etc. to look for or stay away from.

KPAero wrote:I'm in the market for a lathe (used) and figured you guys might have some suggestions on what brands/features, tooling etc. to look for or stay away from.

Check out your local industrial auctions....we picked one up for Jon at a local auction.

You will want something that has a gearbox to do threading probably, make sure the gearbox teeth aren't all chipped up. Many lathes have interchangeable gear sets to cut inch or metric threads, make sure it comes with those.

If you can pick something up that comes with tooling and work-holding that's worth quite a bit of money. Chucks, collets, and tool holders add up in price extremely quickly. A good 3-jaw or 6-jaw chuck can easily cost several thousand dollars. Individual collets used can be found for $10-$15/ea to fill out missing ones, new ones are often $50 or more depending on size.

If you don't have access to 3-phase power at home that can limit you a little. A co-worker cobbled together a phase converter from an old electric motor and a starter relay to power his Hardinge HLV, can be done for a few hundred dollars if you have access to industrial electrical stuff and know what you're doing.

Re:Lathe.
I run a South Bend 13" 'tool room', and a #3 Warner & Swasey turret.
I don't think I'd want anything smaller than the South Bend, unless I was doing lots of small parts.

That was a popular machine in its time, so there are still many available.
I might have bought something else had I been better informed at the time, but it wasn't a bad purchase by any means.

Parts and tooling are often stupidly expensive, so hold out for the most complete setup possible.
3 and 4 jaw chucks at a minimum, preferably taper/keyed or cam-lock mount. Faceplate isn't critical, but nice to have.
Collet chuck is handy but not critical, unless you need to do a production run.
Quick change tooling (Aloris,Dorian Fims etc), steady and follow rests, perhaps taper attachment.
Phase II tooling is NOT a plus.

I would avoid Atlas, Logan, and chinese bench top lathes.
Gunsmiths seem to prefer the SB 'Heavy 10' so those command a premium.

If you only need to run one machine on 3ph, a VFD may be a better choice over the phase converter.
Plenty of info on lathes and DIY electrics of all types on the Practical Machinist site.
Here's a link on 'how to buy a lathe'.

http://www.mermac.com/advicenew.html

I'm not too far from you in seacoast NH if you want to put 'hands on' at some point.

Pascal,

I guess it depends highly on budget, my recommendation would be to get something in the 10-12" range for swing 24"-30" for bed length. I have a 25" bed and honestly have never needed anything longer for the stuff I do, as I'm not Any larger than that gets really heavy and any smaller usually has low HP and small bearings, etc...

The older Harrison Lathes from are really nice in my opinion for the money, still a couple grand though. M250 is a really nice lathe for it's size.
The Austrian Emco Maximat 10/Super 11 are nice machines, but they command good money because of all the features in a small foot print.

If I think of others I will post.