T5 Flywheels

[Crazyswede]

Yes sequential.

I was just figuring that if the cost was similar, it would be worth looking into.

Although selling 20-30 at 10k each is a problem too.

or 1 for $200,000 to $300,000

[Geoff]

Does anyone have any cutaway drawings, or technical drawings of a Saab gearbox?

I hear that there are factory drawings for the S&R gearbox parts floating around, but I've never seen them. I'd love to get a copy.

[nkro]

I have almost completed a good deal om gearsets.

But I cant get enough buyers.

The problem Is.

Wrong country.
To expensive.
Long delivery time.
You have to buy minimum of 10 sets

Now we have 20 sets of the S&R 4 speed late type made here in sweden but Its expensive and hard to sell.

I hade another deal In England that could be really interesting if you have 10 - 20 buyers.

Niklas

[spgftw]

Reviving this one from the dead! I just tried to fit my T5 flywheel from eeuro. This is the 240mm flywheel from a 9000 2.3 (part number 9117615) and I'm wondering if this looks correct. The engine is at TDC, confirmed via a wooden dowel touching piston. Should the machined groove be lining up w/ the timing mark on the end plate? (kinda hard to see, it's maybe 10 degrees clockwise). If I rotate the flywheel counterclockwise the groove is even further from the timing mark. Hoping not, because this wouldn't exactly be easy to correct...

Also are there any install instructions out there? Didn't get any in my shipped package or see them online.

Thanks!

[DrewP]

I haven't installed the one my brother bought, but I can check the indexing of the mark to the dowel hole and the bolt pattern when I go in tonight.

[Crazyswede]

Reviving this one from the dead! I just tried to fit my T5 flywheel from eeuro. This is the 240mm flywheel from a 9000 2.3 (part number 9117615) and I'm wondering if this looks correct. The engine is at TDC, confirmed via a wooden dowel touching piston. Should the machined groove be lining up w/ the timing mark on the end plate? (kinda hard to see, it's maybe 10 degrees clockwise). If I rotate the flywheel counterclockwise the groove is even further from the timing mark. Hoping not, because this wouldn't exactly be easy to correct...

Also are there any install instructions out there? Didn't get any in my shipped package or see them online.

Thanks!

With a standard flywheel it should line up on that mark. This being a lightened unit with the mark added after its hard to say. I do believe the 9000 flywheels had the mark in a different location...but again the material removed during the lightening process would have removed those original marks. Maybe the line got put in the wrong place?

[Crazyswede]

Any idea what needs to be done to the trigger wheel on a non turbo engine that ran LH with the trigger wheel mounted in the harmonic balancer? I hear this can be used as the trigger for T5...would make a nice alternative to the flywheel for race applications where running Aluminium would be advantageous.

[spgftw]

I guess the mark doesn't matter as much as the trigger cutout on the back side. This photo doesn't show it very well, but my finger is marking where the line is on the flywheel. So, maybe 3 teeth between line and beginning of the cutout- meaning that's right about at TDC on the backside. Not sure if that's where it should be???

[DrewP]

Any idea what needs to be done to the trigger wheel on a non turbo engine that ran LH with the trigger wheel mounted in the harmonic balancer? I hear this can be used as the trigger for T5...would make a nice alternative to the flywheel for race applications where running Aluminium would be advantageous.

I believe you can use that for T5.2 like was in '93 Aero's that still had the C900 style shutter wheel with 4 teeth. I have heard that you can flash T5.2 onto any T5 ECU, whether it's T5.2 or T5.5, but I cannot confirm that as I have not tried it.

I think Mike D might have had a thread about it somewhere?

[squaab99t]

I guess the mark doesn't matter as much as the trigger cutout on the back side. This photo doesn't show it very well, but my finger is marking where the line is on the flywheel. So, maybe 3 teeth between line and beginning of the cutout- meaning that's right about at TDC on the backside. Not sure if that's where it should be???

Well it does matter because you want to back check what the ecu is seeing. Remember the teeth placement and missing 2 are relative to the sensor placement and the engine TDC.
Since you have it apart. Take your old and busted fw over lay it on the new hotness using the pilot bearing and one of the mounting holes. Use some dowels that are a close fit. That will get the new mark pretty close for ref.
The real way is with a dial indicator and turn the engine oh so slightly in both directions and divide the two to find true TDC.

[DeLorean]

the eeuro flywheels are 2 teeth off, 11-12 degrees from what we can tell. You will need to make software adjustments in order for them to work properly, otherwise the car will run like piss.

[Jordan]

That index notch looks like it is in the correct position. The pin in the crank is TDC which should be 45* offset from the indicated TDC which lines up with the next hole in the bolt pattern. So the TDC mark is correct by your photos.

This week I tested both a early V1. squaabworks version of the crank pulley and a flywheel and found the squaabworks CPS to be 11* off and the flywheel to be 8* both on the retard side. If you are running a turbo, then these can be corrected with software, feel free to PM me for details, if your running a race car N/A we'll have V2 of the flywheels out shortly to fix the problem as well as some other improvements to the design. I'm going to test another setup to see if I get the same results, not sure exactly what happened, but it will get sorted out one way or another.

[DeLorean]

We are pretty sure it's a full 2 teeth off, which would be 12 degrees retard, not 8. Also of note the squaabworks CPS that are "off" is the V1, Most people here have the V2, which has the adjust-ability, mine had plenty of range to adjust so that the flywheel timing marks when viewed with a timing light jived with what trionic was actually seeing, so anyone with a V2 that you have dialed in properly is fine.

[DeLorean]

not sure exactly what happened, but it will get sorted out one way or another.

Seems like Keith G's cad drawing is either wrong, or confusingly drawn. We looked at it and looked at it, and well... pretty sure that's where the fault lies.

[Jordan]

Who is Keith G? The initial production run and the prototype I have seems to be correct. We had asked the machinist to make some other modifications and what I thought was a slight correct. I think I misunderstood how the global ignition offset worked, so when I adjusted this and still got a good reading , the assumption that these adjustments were correct was off. Again, I verified with a digital timing light that it was 8*. I have another car here with the same flywheel and I'l check that as well.

At any rate the original question about the TDC mark on the flywheel, is correct as our CAD programs are all centered on the dowel pin, not the hash marks on originally on the flywheel as those are arbitrary depending on flywheel application.