Beveled for clearance

Looks like I'll have to have those brackets opened up for those aftermarket sensors!

IT only took a minute with a flat file to make clearance for it.

I would explore a different fastener with a shorter head. The Allen bolts are too tall with that sensor. The bolt stops short against the sensor, and ya can't get the gap tight enough on the bottom.

Happy 40th Birthday Jason. Hope you live a long and Healthy life so you get some of your "PROJECTS" done !!!

gmreider wrote:Happy 40th Birthday Jason. Hope you live a long and Healthy life so you get some of your "PROJECTS" done !!!

Thanks Gary!

I was bitching about turning 40... and my dad turns to me and says "40 isn't old... If you're a tree."

Well you are not a tree, and you best keep your distance from them. So get that car running and move on.
I'll be around my shop all day if you need anything that you forgot to order.

SwedeSport wrote:IT only took a minute with a flat file to make clearance for it.

I would explore a different fastener with a shorter head. The Allen bolts are too tall with that sensor. The bolt stops short against the sensor, and ya can't get the gap tight enough on the bottom.

I think your gap is too tight then. The slots are just slots, it doesn't use the full range of them, and it should be within spec before bottoming out on the bolt head.

The bolt head actually hits the sensor, as opposed to limiting out in the slot.

Got the starter swapped out again. The replacement starter was not disengaging so I changed it.

Top end is all cranked down to spec, and the valve cover should not leak.

Clutch is back together and functioning.

Working on getting all the hoses and turbo ducting together.

Hope to finish the reassembly, and maybe attempt to fire it up tomorrow night after work.

Jordan wrote:

SwedeSport wrote:IT only took a minute with a flat file to make clearance for it.

I would explore a different fastener with a shorter head. The Allen bolts are too tall with that sensor. The bolt stops short against the sensor, and ya can't get the gap tight enough on the bottom.

I think your gap is too tight then. The slots are just slots, it doesn't use the full range of them, and it should be within spec before bottoming out on the bolt head.

I set the gap with a feeler gauge at about .5 mm

See my previous post. Try starting out at 2.0mm

I thought the operating range needed to be between .5 and 1.25 mm?

The car is back together, and running. Everything seems honky dory, except for some noisy lifters that seem to have a problem pumping up.

Doesn't seem to be leaking anywhere. And everything seems to be back together right. Tomorrow I'll try to tackle the lifter problem, do a little nut n bolting, and take it for a spin around the block.

Let it run for a while again this morning, and then took it for a ride. After a few miles the problem lifter pumped up and quieted down.

It does not have a whole lot of power, but I think it is due to the odd hodge podge of parts that make up the motor. The bottom end is a 88T short block with about 135k on it. The head is an 85 Hemi unit that was sitting on the shelf for a while. I had it done at the machine shop 17 years ago, put it on a car for 5 miles before pulling it back off. The turbocharger is out of an 84 900T 8v car. The trans is a CRS rebuilt unit with about 5k on it.

While the whole thing was apart, I replaced the PS pump with a good used one. I replaced all the O-rings in the system while it was apart. It's nice to have easy steering again.

I found a set of good used motor mounts, and fixed that problem too.

The T5 flywheel and CPS are installed, as is a new clutch, pressure plate, TO bearing, pilot bearing, and Slave cyl. Yeah I finally just bit the bullet and did it right.

I'll spend the next week making sure its all good, then I will probably change the oil, and trans oil. It currently just has water in the cooling system, so I plan to drain that and fill it with the proper 50/50 mix. While its drained I need to replace the temp switch in the rad.

The heater valve rod fell off and hopefully is just a simple fix. Gonna at least need to manually turn the valve to the open position to get heat back in the car.

I will probably tackle some of the remaining fender repair before I dive into the harness swap. I would like to have most of the body work patched up this winter, so I can hose some paint on it in the spring. I want to have the faux patina paint job done so that I can take it to Carlisle.

SwedeSport wrote:
I will probably tackle some of the remaining fender repair before I dive into the harness swap. I would like to have most of the body work patched up this winter, so I can hose some paint on it in the spring. I want to have the faux patina paint job done so that I can take it to Carlisle.

Gary and I have both done these, I'm sure we both can help you out there if you need it, I have my relay diagram handy still! If you want to take a look at how I did it in my SPG or the 92 900-S, feel free. I know some people claim to be able to do a T5 install in what is it, 4 hours? (Mike D) and yes... you probably could, but you are not going to do it that fast your first time unless you are an A+ student in reading Saab electrical diagrams, and are already an automotive electrics specialist. There are a couple of GREAT parts you can find at the junk yards that makes this easier. I love the maxi fuse holders, and their attachment support bracket, as well as the C-900 ABS relay / fuse box. I Use those for the FP & main relay and in pre 90, you can mount them right where they are in the later cars. The maxis allow you to wire everything in an even safer manner than it was originally, you can put the junction block which is normally un fused on one of the 60 amp maxi fuses.