85 900T Street Project

[KPAero]

You can machine the back of the flywheel to work, I know there is someone who recently did it that way, I believe they had posted about it on saablink. I think most go the other route because it is slightly easier and so many ac systems dont work anyway.

[SwedeSport]

If you have a link to that I would love to read the thread. Without a doubt need AC on this thing. A dark colored car with dark leather can get a little warm inside.

[Luke]

There was a guy in the uk that did a nice job with the flywheel machining, I have some pics I saved at home.

I have a big stack of flywheels and I started to drawing up a pattern in CAD to get a quote from on having a batch run of these done if there is interest. They also could be lightened a bit at the same time.

[99Super]

http://www.uksaabs.co.uk/UKS/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=72200

If I can't get the 93-style crank trigger to work on my 99, this is the route I'm taking.

john

[squaab99t]

http://www.uksaabs.co.uk/UKS/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=72200

If I can't get the 93-style crank trigger to work on my 99, this is the route I'm taking.

john

The homegrown drill press version is a great way to make some scrap metal. The water jet wagon wheel bolt on is a fair way to do it. I would have stayed away from the sharp corners. They make for stress risers and at 7000 rpm, the distance away from the center of the crank the outer edge is moving pretty fast.

Use this drawing at you own risk. It looks pretty good. The second part of the equation is locating the sensor on the starter plate.

[Jordan]

I also have a plan in the works

[turbo stephan]

The homegrown drill press version is a great way to make some scrap metal. The water jet wagon wheel bolt on is a fair way to do it. I would have stayed away from the sharp corners. They make for stress risers and at 7000 rpm, the distance away from the center of the crank the outer edge is moving pretty fast.

Use this drawing at you own risk. It looks pretty good. The second part of the equation is locating the sensor on the starter plate.

I don't like the sharp edges at all. It already looks like it's going to fail at higher rpm over time.

The other thing is, why do you want T5 in the first place if it's slow for tuning on the dyno. If you want to be able to control every aspect I don't see many ways around a motor sport ecu like Motec.

Stephan

[turbo stephan]

... And settled on Bilstein Touring shocks. Waiting for more stuff to show up. Now that the supply lines are flowing again, I don't have to settle for the sketchy used stuff. ... Maybe I went a bit overboard, but I polished up the skidplate a bit.

I'd be very interested to hear how the Touring shocks work in combination with the Jamex springs. I use the Touring shocks in my 89 turbo cv in combination with shorter original springs in the front. It corners well and doesn't sacrifice comfort on longer road trips. Plus I've hardly any tire wear due to the lowering .

Stephan

[SwedeSport]

I think it could be a while til I have a driving impression with them. There is alot to do before this thing moves under its own power.

I decided to leave all stock rubber suspension bushings in this car. Save the stiff bushings for the race car. I wanted a nice touring car to take to the show and shine. So in reality the whole suspension is just a real simple setup. Good shocks, lowering springs, and the addition of sway bars (85 turbos were not fitted with bars). I would expect it to ride better than the same setup with KYB shocks.

In spite of being rather sick for the last 2 weeks I have managed a little progress. Parts have arrived and are making their way onto the car. Front shocks, and springs are in as well as the spindles. I reassembled the CV joints and put those in as well. Rebuilt brake calipers are on. New braided stainless hoses from SAS. I bought some EBC RedStuff pads but the holes for the guides are too small, so I need to contact EBC. Ill put the pads in when that is resolved and its ready to roll around on 4 wheels.

[SwedeSport]

I have been a bit under the weather lately and have only made a little progress.

She's rolling on her own front suspension again for the first time in 5 years. I need to install the brake pads, and ebrake cables. And everything will have to be gone over with a wrench once more, and its together. I only have one spot to touch up with undercoat.

I gathered the front end fasteners, and hardware and refinished them. I had the rad support sand blasted, and painted it with a few coats of satin black. Found a decent radiator, and condensor, and sprayed them flat black. Things are together loosely as I figure out how it all goes together. I'm finding a few things are missing and sourcing replacements.

The new barrel type motor mounts need work before I can install them. I plan to use marine epoxy with thickening additive. The concept is to use a big syringe to fill the voids with it. The stuff is somewhat flexible, so I think it should hold.

I have the whole entire dash cross bar assembly out so that I can replace the seal at the heater box/firewall. Mine was crumbled into pieces. Got a good one out of a parts car. I cleaned up the heater box where it protrudes thru. I painted it with black plastic paint. It was dull and faded from the sun. Hopefully it holds up. I'd like to tackle reassembling this next.

[Geoff]

Those barrel type front mounts stink for going to solid mounts. The first one I tried to stiffen, I plated the ends of the barrel and the welds broke (welding burned a bunch of rubber so it was much worse afterwards). The second one I did I removed all the rubber from and poured in hard polyurethane. That gave a nice crisp shift feel and kept the engine from rocking around. But the vibrations made the nut loosen up, even with loctite. Twice I had the motor mount come out of the ears. I ended up welding full washers into the ear tabs on the car so when the nut came off the bolt couldn't pull up and out. Then it was just a matter of strong loctite and lots of torque on the nut, plus checking it on occasion.

[SwedeSport]

Everything is only loosely assembled, as it all has to come back apart. I'm 90% there with finding and prepping all the front end bits. The outer fenders need paint, the air dam, and bumper extensions need paint. I found a decent radiator and condensor, cleaned and painted them. I need to make the lower bracket for the E codes. Anyone have a pic of what it looks like?
One of the tabs where the corner markers attach to the headlight is broken, so I'll need to address that (any ideas?).

I want a smoked chrome look on the grille, or at least as close as a rattle can will get me. I remember seeing a kit with silver, and a tinted clear that simulated the look, but can't find anything about it. Anyone know of such products? I filled the hole where the emblem used to be, and tossed the inner part. I plan to use expanded mesh (painted flat black) in the openings.

[SwedeSport]

Was there a cap or plug to fill the holes in the fascia where the headlights wiper shaft passed through?

[Geoff]

The only thing I've ever seen in that hole is headlight wipers.

[SwedeSport]

Uncovered some of the interior stuff over the last few days. Not only to take stock of what I have and need, but also to clean it up and maybe put some conditioner on the leather. It might be a few months before I am ready to install it in the car, so I plan to condition it at least once a month until I am ready for it.

I bought it about 10 years ago, out of a car I was told had about 40k on it. There are a few minor flaws but its probably the nicest OEM seats I have seen. The were all boxed up really well when they arrived, and spent the first 6-7 years in my possession in those boxes. I took them out and have wiped em down and treated them at least once a year. They have not been exposed to UV in 10 years!

I also was able to find a near flawless leather wrapped wheel. I had a custom boot made to fit on my short shifter years ago and it has yet to be installed. The shift knob is just a good used on I found in a U-pull-it.

I got all the other dark blue interior pieces too. I'll need to make something for the B-pillar interior trim. Mine is an 85 and the ones that go with the blue interior, do not fit because the seat belt anchor is in a different spot.

I was going to try some leather that is close in color and texture to the seats. I want to re-cover the door inserts, as well as the parcel shelf with blue leather. Im going to make the rear shelf into a molded cabinet to hold my sound system. Probably 4-6" mids, 2-8" woofers, and a pair of tweeters


In the event that I need to replace the seats, I'm half tempted to get the seats by an upholsterer. Alfa Romeo used the color in some cars. Its almost a basketball orange. Not sure of the actual name of the color, but my buddy has one that is real close to my blue, with that interior and it looks really nice.