Project "Daily Driver"

[airsweden]

I might be able to do an overnite next tues/wed. I could bring the exhaust in one piece if Mongo gets it down to Dorset by then. We could do other fun things too, like see how many empty pbr cans fit in your racecar.

[Jordan]

That would be awesome if the weather cooperates. If you can't do it in one piece no biggie, if it is a clean cut I can just mend it with some ugly welding. That should give me enough time to get it running and finish the swap. Mongo, how would you like payment, usual severed fish heads?

[Crazyswede]

As good as the dead fish standard is....a check or paypal would be fine.

[Jordan]

PM me your address and I'll send a check. That way you can keep paypals greedy little hands out of it. Unless you need instant money for Bucket O' Beans.

[Jordan]

Anybody have any insight onto removing individual wires from the LH connector? I looked up the bosch tool and it looks like a small pair of tweezers. Anybody make one of these or have some tips? I tried a folded piece of wire, but it wasn't working too well.

[DrewP]

Maybe a really small 'jewelers' flat blade screw-driver, it will not be fun to get the little lock prongs depressed on both sides to slide them out though.

When I go to the dentist I ask them for old or disposable picks that would be tossed anyway, they usually give me a few for free, those are good for little stuff like this.

Best,
Drew

[Crazyswede]

Anybody have any insight onto removing individual wires from the LH connector? I looked up the bosch tool and it looks like a small pair of tweezers. Anybody make one of these or have some tips? I tried a folded piece of wire, but it wasn't working too well.

unfolded paperclips work pretty well. There are actual tools for removing those connectors but anything that can depress the little spring tab should work.

[Jordan]

Thanks. I brought a myriad of paper clips from the office so I should be about to find something that works. I swapped the AIC connectors/units already and I think the TPS wires just need to be swapped. The TPS itself looks to be the same between 2.2 and 2.4.

[Hans]

I haven't messed with the plugs in a bit, but if they are the same as the AMM and other smaller connectors, then, yes, a large, unfolded paperclip works (small ones are too flimsy). HOWEVER, you're going to want to file it down flat, like a small chisel. Take your time because the clips are pretty fragile, if you haven't discovered yet. It's pretty easy to mangle them...

If the connectors at the LH plug are different, then ignore this.

[Crazyswede]

Thanks. I brought a myriad of paper clips from the office so I should be about to find something that works. I swapped the AIC connectors/units already and I think the TPS wires just need to be swapped. The TPS itself looks to be the same between 2.2 and 2.4.

As I recall (might be 100% wrong on this)...the TPS on the LH2.2 is not used for anything other than switching the AC compressor on and off or maybe WOT enrichment...the system does all its fuel metering through the AMM, O2 Sensor, and the Temp sensor. I think the TPS on the LH2.4 actually contributes to the fuel curve.

[Jordan]

Thanks. I brought a myriad of paper clips from the office so I should be about to find something that works. I swapped the AIC connectors/units already and I think the TPS wires just need to be swapped. The TPS itself looks to be the same between 2.2 and 2.4.

As I recall (might be 100% wrong on this)...the TPS on the LH2.2 is not used for anything other than switching the AC compressor on and off or maybe WOT enrichment...the system does all its fuel metering through the AMM, O2 Sensor, and the Temp sensor. I think the TPS on the LH2.4 actually contributes to the fuel curve.

The 2.4 TPS is still just a switch type that tells the ECU whether the throttle is closed, partially open, or fully open, depending on continuity through the three terminals. I'm sure the ECUs use the info differently between versions, but I'm pretty sure the actual sensor is the same. The 2.4.2 TPS is the potentiometer which I would guess would definitely play a role in the fuel curve , or at least the ignition curve through EZK. A/C is controlled (switched on/off) through the ECU in 2.4 as well as.

[DeLorean]

Yes, the function of the TPS is a bit mysterious in LH 2.2 & 2.4 systems. If it's disconnected or not working properly, the shift up light will no longer work, and the car generally seems to run a bit funny, especially at low revs (I think it plays a role in fuel cut-off) though full throttle acceleration seems to be unaffected.

[Jordan]

Jeff, do you or Paul have any experience with the Bosch LH connectors? They are similar to the rest of the "AMP" style , but only have one space at the top (looks like an upside down "T" instead of a "+") to stick a tool into. But I can not, for the life of me, get the freakin wire out. I may have to sacrifice another connector just to pull one terminal out and put it into the connector and splice the wires from there.

[Hans]

The TPS does, in fact, tell the ECU to use the full-throttle enrichment: ECU ignores AMM and O2 sensor inputs and goes only on maps and tach signal (it *might* factor coolant temp at WOT, but I'm not positive). I had my 89T on a dyno 6-7 years ago and the operator cut the first pull short because it was running very lean. TPS WOT position was broken.

For fuel cut-off during closed-throttle conditions, with LH2.4, the TPS switch will tell the ECU to cut fuel when you're over -- I think -- 1,800 RPM (1,500??). (Wideband O2 will show free air conditions.) For LH2.2, some, not all, cut fuel during closed throttle overrun. The '86 LH2.2 Saab ECU I have now definitely does not cut fuel but a Volvo ECU I used to have did cut fuel.

For LH2.4, without the TPS signal, I think the ECU will not bring the AIC on-line to help out with idle. For LH2.2, who knows, but presumably it's the same.

Shift up light on my car has been long dead but I think the TPS triggers the dash light to go off if you go to WOT, and it sounds like maybe it uses the closed-throttle position to shut it off as well??

[squaab99t]

Jeff, do you or Paul have any experience with the Bosch LH connectors? They are similar to the rest of the "AMP" style , but only have one space at the top (looks like an upside down "T" instead of a "+") to stick a tool into. But I can not, for the life of me, get the freakin wire out. I may have to sacrifice another connector just to pull one terminal out and put it into the connector and splice the wires from there.

AMP Junior Timer is what you have. They can be challenging to get out. Some junior timers have a single lock and some have a dual lock. My best luck has been using a stainless .035 welding rod bent in a U shape config with the two ends equal length. Masking tape flag on the end so you can grip it and find it on the bench.
Here is the magic: Push on the wire from the back side so the connector moves ever slightly forward. This allows the pin tool to be inserted and the lock tang free to move down without jack knifing into the connector shell. Once you feel the tool push down the tang. Now pull out the wire from the back.