'71 Shell Prep updates

[Luke]

Doh!

I think you'd actually be a lot worse off with an H motor, the waterpump casting would be right smack against the firewall right where your masters want to be....

Any thought about returning the pedal assembly and getting a reverse swing type like I used in the rally car.... that frees up a lot of space in the engine bay and occupies pretty much useless spacer under the dash...

[Jordan]

I dunno I think it might be a bitch with the stock steering column there, plumbing would be a bit harder, I'd have to remote mount the reservoirs and I'd still have to fab up a box mount....I was thinking of cutting 2.5 inches of the shelf and the sheet metal around the mounting plate and then flipping the whole thing upside down and making sides to complete the box.... not sure if that makes sense to anybody but me, but I don't think it will be too bad.

BTW Luke, do you have an answer to my banjo question? I don't see how an NTP bolt would seal well with a banjo, but I suppose now the banjo is making the seal... how did you put banjo fittings onto your handbrake MC in the new car?

P.P.S. my new proportioning valve just was delivered. It's even sweeter than I thought. Not only does it have the built in brake light switch but it has a built in "T" for the front calipers if you want...not as handy for in-car mounting , but saves some hardware that you'd have to buy.

[Geoff]

NPT are tapered threads where as banjo bolts are straight threads. However the nominal OD on a 1/8 NPT is 0.405" on a pipe so you miiiight be able to get a 10mm (.397") banjo fitting over it (maybe with some adjustment, ie opening the hole a little). Then you'd need to find or make a 1/8NPT bolt long enough to fit though the banjo fitting and then make the bolt a banjo style bolt (drill out center, under cut threads where the banjo fitting rests around it, and bore at least one hole through the side of the bolt). Sealing would be done as with a normal banjo fitting - two crush washers. It would likely be a PITA.

You might also consider a short 90° 1/8NPT fitting permanently mounted to the end of the master cylinder and then just take your lines off of that..

[Jordan]

I'm pretty sure all the MC's are 1/8NPT and it doesn't look like he has any adapters or anything... I'm just not sure where to get them or what the correct fitting is...

[Geoff]

1/8 NPT banjo bolt? Doesn't make sense to me. Take the bolt out, bring it to the hardware store and find a nut that fits. Then you'll know. Or get a thread gauge and some calipers...

[Jordan]

1/8 NPT banjo bolt? Doesn't make sense to me. Take the bolt out, bring it to the hardware store and find a nut that fits. Then you'll know. Or get a thread gauge and some calipers...

That's Luke's car. I've seen some information about NPT banjos for bikes and such.. just not sure.

[Luke]

All the masters I have used, tilton, AP and wilwood are threaded with straight thread, usually 3/8-24 and 7/16-20 or 24 on inlet.


Heres a few more recent pics of the pedal setup and the handbrake setup.

[Jordan]

Ahh, now that makes sense. I saw NPT but it must just be on the calipers not MCs. It didn't make sense to me either, that's why I asked!

[SaabsBreakDown]

luke, do you just have your reservoirs mounted remotely with a hose going through the firewall to the cylinder?

[Luke]

luke, do you just have your reservoirs mounted remotely with a hose going through the firewall to the cylinder?

Yep

[Jordan]

Worked on the alternator mount today.

I actually went off the S&R blueprint for the bracket width and then realized it was not the same as the 99/900 alternator....so had to cut-off and re-weld the tab, but it is all set now. It makes getting the mount nut a little harder to get to, but not too bad. Also, I'm going to have to move my clutch master a little as well

Powder coat then some more pics!

[Geoff]

Looks good! Now bore a straight hole with a hand drill

Maybe you can attach the motor mount to the bracket before you drop the engine in and then just tighten the lower nut to the body.

What did you weld it with?

[Jordan]

That was the first edition. The second I moved the tabs to accommodate a 900 alternator. I actually clamped the two tabs and drilled them together then welded it on to the bar. Came out pretty good. I spent some time on the upper bracket which turns out to be a bitch since it is difficult to bend and slot 1/4" strapping with a powerdrill and a benchvise. I was trying to adapt the 900 alternator arm with the tensioner built in but it didn't work to well. I might be able to make it work with another attempt.

[Geoff]

You'll know how everything is lined up when you get it running. My current setup is a C900 B engine alternator mount with the bushings cut off and tabs drilled and welded over. The belt gets chewed up after maybe 500 to 1000 miles. Are you going to run two belts?

I used a 900 tensioner arm when I had my alternator mounted that way but I don't remember how I did it (probably cut the bushing off then drilled a hole in the end of the arm and bolted to a timing cover bolt)

[Jordan]

Oh I took some pics yesterday. Yeah I think I can run both pulleys on the alternator. I didn't put the main pulley on the engine when I put it in the first time ,so I wasn't able to mock it up with a belt or a straight edge , but it looked pretty good. I pulled the motor to modify the firewall yesterday and reinstalled the engine with a pulley (I have no where else to put it at the moment), so I'll check it out.

Going back in time...

Planning....

Doh! bad wheel bearing I think...

Oh yeah, I welded it with my Miller at full power/half wire speed. The bracket is 3/16"