Thats the same facia on my 86 2 door. Its funny that it flows so much more air than the turbo units. It also looks like Hannibal Lectur with his face mask on.

Crazyswede wrote:Thats the same facia on my 86 2 door. Its funny that it flows so much more air than the turbo units. It also looks like Hannibal Lectur with his face mask on.

I went with that one because of the added ground clearance. Since I plan to turn it into a RallyX car at the end of this hillclimb season.

It kinda looks like the Cheshire Cat in Alice in Wonderland...

I did run into a small snag, but one that will just require some creative thought. The new Airdam does not fit and needs to be modified to work. Just a small adjustment.

Finally got around to installing the Bilstein HDs in the car.

I was gonna save the KYBs for another project down the road, but after taking a ride with the Bilsteins, they may just go in the trash.

I'll bet these are worth 2 seconds at the Pagoda Hillclimb.

I had made the decision to pull the gearbox, and finally swap in the box with the Quaife and 30/30 primaries. With only 3 weeks until the Pagoda Hillclimb, I got the gumption to yank out the old motor and trans. The box coming out is from a 91 900. It is a little crunchy when it's cold, but works just fine. It'll go in the corner for now and probably end up in something else eventually.

Started ripping it apart at about 5:30 Friday night. Help showed up about 7:30 and we got the motor out, mated to the new box, freezeplug installed, and back into the car by around midnight. We were spent, so we got the suspension together, and pushed it outside. Went pretty smooth, no problems getting it together and in.

Next day I fixed the hastily hooked up shift linkage and managed to find all gears. Put the exhaust together and double checked everything under the car. Proceeded to hook up the wiring and plumbing topside, and when I got to the clutch, I realized I was missing my spring ring to compress the pressure plate. Tried a bunch of different wire, but couldn't get it to work. ( I think it is in a certain notchback in CT) I'll borrow one this week and get it back together.

My goal is to finish it by Tuesday, so I can put 100 miles on it and make sure it's all honky dory. If anything needs attention I will have next weekend to get it sorted. It would be nice to get some seat time in the car. I am pulling to the stripe with several big changes, and should probably take it easy until I feel it out a little.

I am running Mobil 1 in the engine,

Does anyone have a suggestion on what oil to run in the gearbox with the Quaife?

I was running Redline MT90 in the last box, but I am not sure what to use with the addition of the LSD.

Shockproof is what was being run in my gearbox with the diff. not sure what Luke is running these days.

Luke runs MT-90

I thought that was what he was using.

Is there any special break in procedures?

I was thinking I would fill it with regular oil, run it for 100 miles, then change to the Redline oil. I was thinking it might not hurt it to rinse it out before putting the expensive stuff in it.

SwedeSport wrote:I thought that was what he was using.

Is there any special break in procedures?

I was thinking I would fill it with regular oil, run it for 100 miles, then change to the Redline oil. I was thinking it might not hurt it to rinse it out before putting the expensive stuff in it.

I run a quaife in my daily driver. Break in I varied the power. Get on it in the curvers since that is how the torsional LSD work. Switch load from one wheel to the other. I started off with redline light weight shock proof. Yes you "throw away" about 30 bucks with a 500 mile break in but you just spent about 1800 in labor and parts.
Now as a daily driver I use 1 quart of mtl and the rest shock proof. I do have an oil cooler that I rarely use. Only when it is ambiant hot and driving hard do I kick it on.

MT-85 for street
MT-90 for syncro rally box
Lightweight shockproof for rally dogbox

Air dam version 2.1. Reworking the front bumper/fascia a little. Added an HDPE splitter, and some aluminum angle. I'm gonna have the aluminum welded. The stock car plastic then has a rivet flange to attach to. Next step will be to fit the upper part of the sheet to the back of the bumper. Most likely riveted to the aluminum bumper beam. I'm sure I'll need to add a few supports in strategic locations. I can probably better visualize it if I get the lower half finished and mocked up with a bumper.

I think those blocks of wood will ruin the airflow

Blocks of wood are just to isolate the welding heat from melting the plastic.

I found the clutch ring, but had to wait til tonight to finish it up and get some heat into it. Fired right up, no leaks,... topped off fluids and checked a few bolts. Sprayed the clutch with some brake cleaner, and proceeded to see if it would engage all gears. Checked everything over one last time, and went for a spin around the block. Everything seems to be working as it should.

The only snag in the program so far is an oscillation in the speedometer needle that was not there before??? It seems to only do it under 50 mph.

I got on it a little and ran it thru the gears a bit. Feels pretty good. I would have thought I could feel it a little more. There is a bit more steering effort. I am running a 900 EMS manual rack in it. But it is less of a pain than I was expecting. I'll know better how I truly feel about it after the first hill is in the books with the new setup.

I am going to do a short road trip in the car tomorrow, and run it around town a little. Then I am going to drain the gearbox and fill it with some fresh stuff Friday night. A good rinse won't hurt it any.

I am sure the overall setup changes to the car this season are going to pay off.