Time to add lightness...

The factory 99 seats are about 40 lbs, the Recaros are 50.

I bought a Kirkey Intermediate Road Race seat and it came in Thursday...

17 lbs.



When I install this and the RCI seat I ordered for the passenger (Passenger seat req'd in SMF), I'll have saved 75 lbs!



Battery is next! I need to lose another 175 lbs to reach the SMF minimum. Battery should get me another 30, fiberglass hood should be about 40.

John

The Kirkey is in! 30lbs saved...

Well done. What is the time limit duration you are shooting before you say "Uncle" in one sitting?

Most of my climbs are about 2 minutes, ORP lapping sessions are 20.

I can last that long before I start to bruise...

Quick update now that the Board is back up! 1 recurring problem I've had w/ this car is a tendency to spin on hard braking into right turns. I had my alignment checked and the axle has excess toe on the LR. I've got a new axle ready to go in, as well as a pair of adjustable spring perches and new 3", 350# springs.
I also cut my fenders for more tire clearance so I can get the rear lower.
I'm off for the next 4 days so I plan to get this project finished up, after yard work, of course : P
Photos soon!

john

Got the rear mostly finished up...

Nice work. How is the access to get to the seat ring and/or lock ring? I have been thinking about inverting my front jackscrew setup version for the rears. I just can’t turn the lock ring without pulling the wheel and guessing how much to turn. With the jack screw, just need a socket wrench and tune the height, jounce and adjust accordingly. My only reservation is the jackscrew protruding below the trailing arm. More robust than the 99 rear shock rod, but still the same problem.

Access is good, even to the ring set screw, but you have to crawl under the car to reach it. Not bad in a 99 sedan, but maybe more difficult w/ the 900 trunk. I thought about doing the jack screw, but didn't for the same reason you mentioned. I still think it's a good option and less expensive than my route. Maybe if this doesn't work like I thought...

My welding has improved greatly due to the purchase of a Century 95/110 MIG welder I found at an estate sale w/ a full tank of C25 and a new spool of wire for $100!

Electric Power Steering bits have arrived.
Hope to get started this weekend, but Deb wants to go to the Comic-con and there's a Full-Auto club shoot tomorrow so it may have to wait...

Ok, the EPS is on hold...for now...

The 94 'Vert from the junk yard yielded a Mitsu TE05 and a nice clean block, (plus, a dist, IC pipes and APC for the SPG).
The block is stripped and at the shop to get honed, decked and 'O' ringed.
I have a 2.1 head that goes to machine shop Friday. T5 intake valves are on order...
I already have everything else I might need for this engine on the shelf, so it should go together quickly and for a minimal cost.

I think this will be the 4th engine in this car!

Question... I've read this both ways, but is there any real evidence that the 85 ex cam is better than a standard cam? Visually, it looks exactly the same as the cam that came off the head. I know the intake is different (swirl), but is the exhaust *really* different?

John

Perfect, thanks!

John

Update:
So, I'm copying Luke and Gary and building a new 2.1/2.2 motor for Frank.
I was going to just do a stock rebuild on the 2.0, but after cleaning the pistons, there was more detonation damage than I liked, and I just happened to be rebuilding a 2.1 block for the 78 GLE, so it got torn back down and off to the machine shop.
I just got off the phone w/ Summit, having ordered a set of Eagle 2RZ rods...
I'm getting my piston order together, should have that in later today.
Am also going to buy the ARP head studs from GenuineSaab.

With a little luck, I'll have the new motor together for the new hillclimb season, then be at the SOC19 this summer!

Take photos of the build. What size pistons did you go with? What did they run you? Wrist pins and rings included?

I had some I was ready to post before I changed the project, I'll be sure to get some up as soon as the parts start to roll in...

The rods are coming from Summit, $349. Then I have to have the grooves machined in.

The pistons are 94mm and I'm ordering them from RaceTec in CA. $400 for a bare set, I can use my pins and snap rings save $50...

I was planning on rings from Deves. I've used them forever and never had an issue. Racetec uses TotalSeal as their default ring, any thoughts on them?
Then off to Swain for crown and skirt coating.

I need to do more research to decide if I want to spend the $$ to have the crank lightened.