84 900 F Prepared Notchback

[squaab99t]

Looking forward to getting this thing going. It is so nice to work on things at this stage that are clean and well prepped!

First step will be the manifold. I have a plan for that already and tested the the weld-ability of the castings. Next is to make a couple of jigs to aid in the fab work. I'll post the process here when I get into it!

Castings usually weld like shit. Clean the inside of the runner with a good solvent. Pre heating will drive off some of the contaminates on the surface. I use a propane torch. I set my tig machine to 75 % cleaning action. Have a couple of beers because it will piss you off. It is like welding dirt.

[SwedeSport]

Definitely,... I am not going to be there to document this part of the process. So it will be up to you to snap some progress pics.

I am going to work on some of the sub assemblies here, and possibly bring them up there and put some stuff together. Exhaust system, and CV joints, etc. Do you guys have a plasma cutter? I can also gather the materials to do the cage foot reinforcement, and the seat mount rails. As well as the seat.

I have scads of stuff here, so if there is anything I forgot, I can send it up. I am sure there might be some new parts that will be needed to make it work as well. Like brake lines and fuel lines. I was going to use ATE Super Blue brake fluid. As far as the engine/gearbox oil, I was thinking regular motor oil at first, as a flush, then change it out to Mobil1/MT90. We will work it all out.

Do you have a brake circuit block from an ABS car, or should I try to score one for you?


I am shopping for the auxiliary gauges, as well as the L.E.D. bulbs and sockets for the brake lights. I will try to come up with a mock up layout of the dash plan.

[Jordan]

Yeah I already puddled both manifolds to see how it would go. Cleaned, preheated, cleaned, cleaned...shit still comes out, but I'll make it work.. just have to be patient. Anything above 60% was really eating up my 3/32" tungsten, so I might have to go up to 1/8". Pulse was also helping a little to not overheat the piece and draw in junk. The older manifolds definitively weld better than the new ones!

I have an ABS block here. I'd focus on making a plan of what guages you want, where you want them to go as well as the other basics like battery size , location , switch locations etc etc.

[Mezzanine]

Jordan, it sounds like you've got things in hand. I'd encourage you to try the 1/8" tungsten. The last time I tig'd castings, this made things a little easier with the cleaning turned up as Dennis mentioned. I was welding two equal thicknesses together though; not sure what conditions you're working with.

[squaab99t]

Jordan, it sounds like you've got things in hand. I'd encourage you to try the 1/8" tungsten. The last time I tig'd castings, this made things a little easier with the cleaning turned up as Dennis mentioned. I was welding two equal thicknesses together though; not sure what conditions you're working with.

You guys are still missing the beer. Are you at least welding some wrought to the casting or casting to casting?

[SwedeSport]

There was some beer there this past weekend.


I think Jordan is gonna make it look easy, and that intake will be done in short order. I have faith in him. The force is strong in that one.

[Jordan]

Thanks for all the input dudes, it will certainly be a learning experience... I will start another thread and will be happy to get some feedback throughout the process

[DrewP]

There was just a video up on WeldingTipsandTricks.com where Jody recommended 4145 alloy rod for AL castings. Never tried it myself, but that guy has never really led me astray.

It was in the video of repairing the edge of an ally boat prop.

[SwedeSport]

Recently stumbled on a really killer deal on 6 race tires for this project. I cannot reveal the price I paid for these, but let's just say I could not pass it up.

2 still have nubs on the tread, and the other 4 were used for maybe 2-3 runs. They are Yokohama Advan AO48 225/50/15.

[SwedeSport]

Well this project has been moving very slowly if at all for a while.

014 saw some rule changes for FP that resulted in the exclusion of my turbo motor. So I am going to have to build an NA motor for it. I think it will be a 2.1 based setup, with a header and really simple exhaust. T5 engine management.


I guess I need to find a header for a 2.1 motor.

[SwedeSport]

Picked up a set of universal rivet on flares from ebay. I think they will do the trick. If not, they were not expensive.

Got to get back on this project again.

I am going to visit Jordan, and hopefully get my hands on the car again. I would like to get the suspension figured out, and start fabbing the pieces necessary to complete the roller. I plan to make a tubular lower control arm, with the proper perch built in already. I plan to get the Powerflex bushings for the rear. As well as order the Afco springs, and parts. An adjustable panhard, and trailing links will be fitted as well. It would be nice to button up some major tasks this season.

[SwedeSport]

The flares are not wide enough to cover the big meaty 225s. So I guess I am back to the original plan to make my own.

Took a trip to visit Jordan, and play with my Notchback project in the eEuroparts warehouse.

Assembled a set of CV joints for it, but will probably need to change the inner drivers in the trans. The tripod bearings are too big for the drivers.

Managed to get the front brakes assembled, but still need to do the brake lines.

Formulated a plan for the manifold modifications. Now that I do not have to hide the mod, it will be easier to mate the t7 base to the 2.1 runners and plenum.

Looked at a way to use the larger 9-5 oil cooler on the front of the car, I believe I can get it to work.

Gotta prep some more pieces and plan another trip to CT to work on the car some more.

[Adrian Thompson]

The flares are not wide enough to cover the big meaty 225s. So I guess I am back to the original plan to make my own.

I'm confuse. In the picture above it looks like you're saying that the flare is 65mm wide. If that's the case, how can it not cover 225's? Do you have a massive amount of wheel offset?

What is the normal offset / max wheel tire you can fit under a stock fender? I thought plenty of people ran 205's on stock fenders, I don't see how an extra 20 mm of width can't be covered with 65mm of flare even with lot's of extra offset.

This isn't doubting you, just trying to understand.

Thanks

[Jordan]

He is running zero offset wheels, so I figure that adds another 40mm to the equation

[SwedeSport]

The tires stick out 2 inches from the stock lip. If I measure from the flat fender side, it's about 3 inches.

The wheels are 15x8.25, 0 offset.

I should have just stuck with the original plan and made flares from scratch.