99 Street

[squaab99t]

I made a special tool out of a 1qt paint can lid that pressed on the seal using the ridge in the lid. I drilled holes in the lid and used the flywheel bolts to press the tool against the seal. It took two tries to get it right because the paint can lid was too flexible. I might try that again if I were to weld a plate of steel on the outside of the lid that presses on the outer lip so it doesn't flex the lid. Either that or make my own tool using a similar shape built out of a thick chunk of steel.

Dude that totally rocks. I can see making a tool as you describe. 1/4" plate and a UHMW (cutting board) donut on the rim. Much better control than a hammer, drift and sleeve press.

[jfoo13]

Yes, Rota RBs 16x7 +22. I almost went with a lower offset thinking they might poke out a little but they are actually tucked in just a hair in the front, and 10mm more tucked in the rear. Talk to 18racing.com - cheapest set I could find.

[Jordan]

I don't see a +22 on that site.

[jfoo13]

I didn't see it on their site either but they should have it if you call them. I was originally going to get +25 which fits too but they only had gunmetal with polish lip. $550 or less with shipping for all 4 wheels = deal

[Hans]

I made a seal driver tool from an ABS plastic pipe cap from the plumbing dept. at Home Depot. Bring the seal with you to get the right size. If you carefully cut the cap down so it's thinner, you can drive the seal in with the flywheel bolts; if you don't cut it down, you'll need to source longer bolts.

You don't need to drill all the holes I did.

[jfoo13]

Thanks Hans - this seems like best/easiest route. My clutch is good (throw out squeaks occasionally cause its dry but when I engage its fine) - do you think I need to replace any parts of the clutch when I take it apart to do the seal?
The manual also says I will have to partially replace another gasket when I do the rear crank seal - is this correct? I can't find which one.

[jfoo13]

After a nice Saturday last weekend this is where I'm at. Funny enough when i got into the motor the crank seal looked pretty good. I think it was the endplate that holds it all on that was leaking as I could see some clean oil trickles from the lower side where it meets the transmission edge. It was also missing the lower two bolts that go into the transmission right below the seal - (fast 5spd. conversion I'm guessing). After some serious cleaning and excessive gasket sealer, its all back in place.
New flywheel bearing, new slave and throwout. Had to use a bike pump to get the clutch pressure back up - worked great. Also got the radiator repaired and attached a k&n filter. Found a nice plumbing nozzle to fit in the oil breather and tie into the line. Also got a new coolant reservoir and cut the straps to fit.

Its still got some random wiring to clean up and I'm leaking a little coolant at the head
but for now it still moves on its on power so I'm happy. Excited to show the boys some support this coming weekend in my home state.

[airsweden]

Looks pretty nice.... I don't think the 2 bolts directly below the crank/behind the flywheel were ever present from new. I've never seen them used on any 99 or 900.

[Crazyswede]

Go to a junkyard. Pull the injectors, AMM, Fuel injection computer, and injection wiring harness out of a non turbo 86 or 87 900. Then pull out the old injection system and swap in the new. You will need to drill and tap your intake for the 900 Style NTC sensor but otherwise it should be a pretty simple swap.

[jfoo13]

Crazyswede what will this gain me? Aside from better reliability but I haven't had any problems with the fuel other than some minor electrical issues. I'd love to find a junkyard with an 86/87 900 but the pick and pulls are getting scarce it seems. I wanted to do the brake conversion too (and then later an engine conversion possibly) but I don't have the room right now to store an extra car. If you know of a junkyard with that year saab please share!

[Crazyswede]

better reliability. much better reliability. Oh, and hot babes.

[GOLFGURU]

Rugged 99 bro,looks cool without bumpers...99's RULE! j

[Emil N]

I would never instal a K-jetronic in that car. A LH would be a lot better and not so much more job to fit it on the 8v. i have done this on a T8 once and it run very well.

[Crazyswede]

I would never instal a K-jetronic in that car. A LH would be a lot better and not so much more job to fit it on the 8v. i have done this on a T8 once and it run very well.

who said anything about installing K jet?

[Jordan]

Hey Jon,

It was great to meet you (briefly) hope you and your dad had fun and got to see some of the action!