Building a 900 for hillclimbs

[KPAero]

Also, I assumed this would happen at some point. It's not the end of the world, I was mostly just happy it remained drivable. The new turbo I put in was a bit bigger than the previous ones, and spools slightly slower without the same sudden on-set of boost. I sort of like it as it feels smoother, but wouldn't want to give up much more down low as it would start to seriously affect how the car does at hillclimbs.

[KPAero]

Anyone here good with brake master cylinder sizing? I would like to switch to dual masters while retaining the stock 88+ calipers. Im going to try and figure it out later, but figured I'd put it out there is anyone here has any idea.

[Jordan]

2x 3/4" seems to be the standard.

I think all you have to do is figure out the math for taking out the booster and pedal feel. Since the stock cylinder is really two (I'm not sure what size 7/8"?) pistons inline and the booster is something like 2:1? So in terms of keeping the same power that makes sense. You may need to go one size smaller, but you're going to do the math...

[KPAero]

In anticipation of getting the new shifter I went on the hunt for some quality universal joints to use in the shift shaft. Like Luke mentioned in the shifter thread, NOS apex joints and good used ones, are not easy to find. At over $100 each for new ones, that didn't make sense either.

What I found were a set of driveshafts for some sort of machine tool from an ebay seller. The shafts are comprised of one booted apex joint on one end, another larger, unmarked, booted universal on the other, and a spring loaded two piece shaft in the middle. Im thinking I will be able to make something work using materials I have on hand.

Given their will probably be a rush to get the car ready before the first hill climb, I might of been better off getting the shaft with the shifter to save some time, but I had already purchased these joints when that was offered and decided it would be good to cut some costs somewhere as I had also just ordered a bunch of maintenance type parts.

Anyways, Im starting to get excited for the warm weather and motorsports that come with it. Temps in the garage are getting better so I should have some more updates as soon as I get my van running again.

[KPAero]

Continuing to gather some parts to make updates before the first hill climb. I've been going back and forth on adding in a cooler for the transmission and decided to go for it when I found a pair of used tilton pumps from one of the NASCAR/circle track surplus sellers on ebay. They were a pretty good deal so the whole install will be pretty cost effective. I tested both pumps and they work fine but to make me feel better I am probably going to order a re-build kit with the Viton diaphragm for one and keep the other as a spare.

I'm currently putting together a list of the fittings and hoses I'll need to complete the install. My one question is about how to order the filter-cooler-pump. Im thinking of putting them in that order to keep any crap out of the pump and cooler. My only concern is having the pump at the end of the chain. I would like to put it there to have a lower temp oil running through it, but does anyone know if there is anything in the pump that could fail and end up back in the transmission? I could always put it before the cooler to stop any large debris.

[squaab99t]

Continuing to gather some parts to make updates before the first hill climb. I've been going back and forth on adding in a cooler for the transmission and decided to go for it when I found a pair of used tilton pumps from one of the NASCAR/circle track surplus sellers on ebay. They were a pretty good deal so the whole install will be pretty cost effective. I tested both pumps and they work fine but to make me feel better I am probably going to order a re-build kit with the Viton diaphragm for one and keep the other as a spare.

I'm currently putting together a list of the fittings and hoses I'll need to complete the install. My one question is about how to order the filter-cooler-pump. Im thinking of putting them in that order to keep any crap out of the pump and cooler. My only concern is having the pump at the end of the chain. I would like to put it there to have a lower temp oil running through it, but does anyone know if there is anything in the pump that could fail and end up back in the transmission? I could always put it before the cooler to stop any large debris.

Well the preferred is to have the filter last before it puts the oil back into the transmission. This is to catch pump, hose or cooler debris. The pump manufacture likes to have the oil cooled before it enters the pump for obvious reasons.
The way mine laid out I only followed cooling the oil before the pump.

flow.png (390 KiB) Viewed 6357 times

Starting in the upper left image and walking around clockwise.
1) Lower hose with gold collar on the diff cover is hot oil out.
2) Feeds into a remote filter bolted to the driver inner fender.
3) The filter housing feeds the left hand side of a H engine oil cooler.
4) Right side of the oil cooler to the pump
5) Finally back to the upper hose fitting on the diff cover. Cooled oil input
I had a -10 assembly on the shelf, so that is what drove having the filter first in line. Now that I know how to better work with AN fittings and hoses I would reroute to: cooler, pump , filter, gearbox. -8 on the circuit wil work fine.

[KPAero]

I got the car back together last minute for the Ascutney hill climb featuring the long course. (roughly 4 miles) The transmission I had acquired ended up working well, especially mated to the sweet 9sport shifter. I received a lot of compliments on that, and really liked using it. Thanks Luke!

I didn't end up completing any other major additions, but did tackle some maintenance items like ball joints, tie rods/ends, calipers and a few rear bushings. The rear bushings made a big difference. By the end of last year they were really shot and the car would sometimes behave oddly mid corner. Probably from sudden large shifts in the rear suspension.
Here is some in car-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUHQJcuk ... e=youtu.be

[KPAero]

Start line-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dnIUgqb2 ... e=youtu.be

[Geoff]

Good rear bushings make a huge difference. The first time I replaced some (on an '85) I almost drove off the road at the first sharp corner. I was accustomed to putting in more steering input than was needed with good bushings.

[KPAero]

With the new shifter installed my old hydraulic hand brake no longer fit where it was mounted. Rather than try and modify that to work I decided it would be better to start new and make something that both fit in the car nicer and functioned better.

As far as function, I mainly need the handbrake to hold the car on steep inclines at the top of hillclimbs so I can leave it running after a run. Even though I don't currently use it while driving, I figure it should also function in that purpose as well.

To do that I figure it needs to not have any flex in its mounting and the handle needs to have little to no play to help with brake feel through the handle. For now the bottom of the handle has been left long so I can play with the "pedal ratio" if needed. The space it needs to fit next to the shifter is tough because it is limited by space to shift and not intrude on the passenger space too much. (I have a switch panel/master cut-off down between the seats)


So what I decided to do was build the mount and handle out of old chromoly bike frame tubing. The frame provides several different sizes of tubes, as well as some nice shapes (tapered, bends etc.) to use. It is also thin walled and very light! The handles pivots on two radial bearings, and the frame branches off only one side to help conserve space.

I still am going to add another brace going to the rear and at least one branching off to one side to stop any lateral flexing. I plan to mount the master up by where the first mount is on the exhaust tunnel. That will require an extra shaft between the handle and master to span the distance, but should keep the brake lines out of danger from an accidental kick climbing in or out.

It should turn out pretty good. Progress has been slow with the temps in the garage and I have been busy fixing my 9000 and van, but this will be done for Okemo along with a couple other items.

[Jordan]

Sweet, I plan on being at Okemo II with the LeMons car for some testing.

[KPAero]

Any thoughts on adding a steering quickener? Im thinking a 1.5:1 would be a nice addition to the car.

[Jordan]

Do it!

[Geoff]

I put a 2:1 into my 99. It really changed the behavior of the car and made rallycross much easier. It isn't 100% necessary but consider adding a cooler to the power steering system. Mine was always getting warm and I ended up destroying a pump (which was used and crappy when I put it in).

[Crazyswede]

I picked up a 2:1 for my rally car....I have found out that Mitsubishi made reduced ratio racks for some of their cars and I need to measure one of as they looked like they might be a similar size to the saab rack. If we could swap a rack in it would be a simpler setup and less strain on the steering components and pump.