Wow ... big difference!

That looks phenomenal!! My dad had a 5-door 99 when I was born. He has told me countless times that he wishes that he had kept it. I'm sending him your page to check out.

Cleaned up the bumpers with SuperClean and found that they had been painted at some point. The SuperClean took most of the paint off and lacquer thinner took care of the rest. I still have some overspray from one of the previous budget paint jobs to clean up, but the results are nice matte black. I had the backing and mounts media blasted and powder coated. This is the front bumper. I'm replacing the rubber band the 1977 had with the steel band of the 1976. I don't think I'll polish the steel band, but I'll clean it up by putting grain lines in it with a Delorean scratch repair pad ;-).

Do you need the wide chrome strips for the bumper?

I met someone who has a NOS set today.

The plastic chromium or the stainless steel bands?

Got a crack in one of these pipes and decided to just remove it after numerous recommendations. I need to find a good cap nut, so I'll check my two bolt/nut supply shops and post more info.

sjones wrote:Got a crack in one of these pipes and decided to just remove it after numerous recommendations. I need to find a good cap nut, so I'll check my two bolt/nut supply shops and post more info.

I might have a Tri Y manifold without the ERG bungs.
I can check if it is uncracked if you are interested?

Hmmm sure, because you know I'm going to get it powder coated first and then swap it on :). Either POR-20 is really POOR-20 or I just didn't prep the surface enough.

BTW, I think we may have fractured that pipe at the Fix-it day when we did the motor mounts, but you were one of those telling me to get rid of the mess anyway. ;-) After I removed the pipe fittings I started it up just to hear the noise .. what a great noise. According to the shop manual there looks to be like a 1 or 2 inch pipe which is inside of the manifold after the fitting. Is that correct? I think just capping them off would be the easiest.

I'll probably have Foster's Frame and Axle do the alignment in Georgetown on Tuesday .. Nate at Troll Motors recommends them highly as they're not just a 'toe adjust' shop.

This thing is looking great! Keep it up.

Even the expensive Jet-Hot coatings will come off.


I have seen where guys blast the exhaust manifold, then coat them with silver anti seize compound and buff. You need to keep applying it though, as it burns off.

Yeah, I think peeling POR still looks better than the rusty color it was.

For the EGR proportional air pulse fittings on the exhaust, I just used 5/16" compression fitting caps. I coated the threads with high temp RTV and let it cure for 24hrs. I drove it around quite a bit today and they held up great. The exhaust pressure out of the pulse system isn't that high, but its got two valves it has to go through. We'll see. If I hear a metallic bang when one of those caps spins itself off, I'll follow up ;-) BTW, if you are going to do this, I recommend you just cap them rather than removing the entire fitting. Others have recommend breaking the tubes and welding them shut, but AeroKroil did a great job to help me get the pipe side of the fittings off.



The earlier mud flaps went on with no issues. I think someone here said that they wouldn't fit on a combicoupe, but they went on easily.



For the air dam and headlamp bezels I used rubber well nuts. Originally these would have been used, but when I got the car they were all replaced with hard mount screws/nuts. The shop manual shows them mounted that way and it protects the piece as well as the paint.

Amazingly I just have a short list of things to get done .. :)

[quote="sjones"]Yeah, I think peeling POR still looks better than the rusty color it was.

For the EGR proportional air pulse fittings on the exhaust, I just used 5/16" compression fitting caps. I coated the threads with high temp RTV and let it cure for 24hrs. I drove it around quite a bit today and they held up great. The exhaust pressure out of the pulse system isn't that high, but its got two valves it has to go through. We'll see. If I hear a metallic bang when one of those caps spins itself off, I'll follow up ;-) BTW, if you are going to do this, I recommend you just cap them rather than removing the entire fitting. Others have recommend breaking the tubes and welding them shut, but AeroKroil did a great job to help me get the pipe side of the fittings off.


Found it. Looks good meaning no cracks or broken flanges.


No bungs

Folks at Performance Coating in Auburn can make it look spiffy.
http://www.performancecoatings.com/index2.html

Looks good squaabt, I've pm'ed you.

Got the upper dash, heater controls and glove box installed. My heater controls were destroyed, so I put together a good unit from two however the friction cable clip mounts were bad. I was able to use two screws, washers and loctite to get the cables held in place. Hey and the glove box opens and closes nicely!