1987 900S Track Car

[87 n/a]

If it's got the big dogbone rubber coupling like a 9000 you can just wrap a bunch of zip ties around the two halves and cinch them together, good as new. The studs tear out of the rubber and don't hold tight, you just need to hold the metal pads together.

Hose clamps work too, but I usually do like 6-8 medium zip ties.

Not the dogbone style coupler

[87 n/a]

So, finally replacing the shift coupler. I removed the shifter from the body to inspect the internals and at some point, this mystery part fell out.

Where does it go?

[Hans]

I believe that goes in the bottom of the ignition. When you put the key into the tumbler, it presses on that metal piece pictured above, which, in turn, moves down, presses against a small stamped steel piece (kind of like a seewaw, actually), which moves and actuates a switch for the buzzer.

[87 n/a]

Thanks, I was looking at the see-saw thing and it seemed to need another piece to it. Got it. Nice when you can get all the parts back together

[87 n/a]

Haven't updated this in a while. Got the ignition back together, but within a month or so I pulled it out and went to an ignition switch/button starter.
Got a new shifter coupling in and that made an improvement.
Fabricated a solid motor mount for just the passenger side.
Installed the MSS header.
Ran the car at Daytona Speedway and Sebring over the last couple months.
Now I am doing the 88+ bolt pattern gear upgrade and putting some 9000 front brakes on.
Sunroof delete is awaiting a flanging tool.

My question to the community is... what alternative valve springs have you used and what are your impressions of them?

[Jordan]

Now I am doing the 88+ bolt pattern gear upgrade and putting some 9000 front brakes on.

NOooooooooooooooo

More better:

[87 n/a]

I'm sure the Wilwoods are better, but I suspect that front brake setup would cost me more than $20

[Sam]

What ball joint comes with white rubber like that?

[Jordan]

I think it's silicone. Febi ones do.

[Jordan]

I'm sure the Wilwoods are better, but I suspect that front brake setup would cost me more than $20

When you factor in the cost of rebuilding the old calipers, new rotors, time involved in swapping all your axles/hubs/brake lines (assuming you get all the parts for free), losing whatever wheels/tires you currently have and have to replace, I'm pretty sure it's going to cost more than $20.

[87 n/a]

At my last outing to Sebring, SCCA had imposed a rule to not allow my Hoosier Slicks anymore since they weren't DOT approved
Have a set of 15x7 rims with tires almost brand new just sitting collecting dust. (back-up set for either the 88spg of the 97aero)
As for my time...it is practically worthless anyway.
So, total budget for boxed front a-arms, 88 front knuckles and hubs, 9000 front rotors and calipers, new ball joints, 88 900 rear axle, hubs, rear rotors and calipers and braided steel brake lines, wheels and tires is $215.
Wish I had a bigger budget, but happy with these improvements.

[87 n/a]

Spent a while cleaning up the donor parts and finally got around to starting the swap. A couple glamour shots of the 9000 brakes and boxed lower control arms.

[87 n/a]

Took a little while to find another 88 rear hub as the original one I pulled wasn't up to par. Reassembled the rear end. Traded the original 87 front brakes & e brake cables for a rear hub and a 2.1 throttle body



She is still on jackstands though.



And a couple shots of the sunroof delete project.

[SwedeSport]

You say you are putting big wheels and tires on it? What were you planning to use?

[87 n/a]

You say you are putting big wheels and tires on it? What were you planning to use?

Bigger than my 13" that were banned by SCCA

I am using these that are 15x7 since they are just collecting dust in my garage. Sold the Beryl with the original SPG rims on it.