White '73 99LE Notchback

[Geoff]

You might just need a thicker gasket to get clearance from the impeller.

Also, does your water pump have shims under the bearing? Check out the attached Service Instruction

[DrewP]

It does not have shims, but yes, I needed a thicker gasket or two stacked on each other. It was only interfering about 0.010", just enough to touch and rub the top of the bolt head smooth.

Since I have mills at work and it's a Friday, I claimed laziness and took 0.035" off the nub inside the cover so I only have to make one more gasket tonight instead of two. Or instead of going to buy more gasket paper that's thicker.

[Sam]

I ordered the one year only 1986 900 pump from amazon. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZ ... 00_s00_i00
They are supposed to be higher pressure than all the other years and since there is little demand for that year, they are really cheap.

[DrewP]

Wow, those are cheap. Should probably just get a spare one to keep on the shelf for my '85 anyway, I think I've only got used ones laying around.

I thought those pumps are meant to be mounted in the tank and rely on the fuel sitting around it to help cool the pump?

[DrewP]

Well, basically gave up on the D-jet. I do get signal firing the injectors (test noid light) and seems like everything is squared away with the correct points in the distributor, but the injectors in my car were clogged totally full of carbon and varnish.

I let them sit in our ultrasonic cleaner for like an hour, then rigged up a pressure hose and hook shop air pressure to the injectors (in both directions) to blow the junk out and circulate some WD-40 through them. I did get some to flow a tiny bit finally (after thick black good oozed out) but they aren't salvageable.

Between that, and not knowing if my MAP and intake temp sensors are any good anyway I think I'll just throw the CIS setup back on and get it running for now. $160 for injectors plus not knowing if the MAP sensor is any good, so another $100 or whatever (didn't spend much time looking for cheaper ones) doesn't sound like a good gamble.

The water pump rubbing was easily fixed. It just needed a little bit thicker gasket, the top of the bolt head was rubbing the little nub in the center of the pump cover.


So now I need a CIS thermostat housing - the D-jet housing I have doesn't have a place to bolt the warmup regulator to, it has the funny heated positive crankcase thing on it.


I have this:





Need one like this:

[Jordan]

I have that d-jet EMS that is waiting to be looked at... it doesn't look like the pump is running and someone put some jumpers over relay spots, but I don't have any manuals with component locations (the book that came with the car was CIS!). do you have or recall where the pump relays or how that circuit works? What I really want is another dcoe weber manifold

[DrewP]

I have them labelled on my car, I'll snap a photo for you. It'll be easier than trying to remember.

[DrewP]

Here's the relays.

The big one in front is headlamps, then the two small ones behind the fuse panel are ignition, then radiator fan.

The two large ones in the inner fender mounted above the D-Jet ECU are fuel pump and main relay (I think).

The fuel pump relay is the one with the black and white wires going into the 3-pin connector (main relay has one red/green and something else). Jumping the two white leads going into the pump relay will run the pump (hence my red jumpery wire with the spade terminals).

The pump logic is the same as in LH-Jetronic. At key on it runs the pump for a second to prime, then the ECU closes the relay when it sees an RPM signal from the pickup in the distributor.

[Jordan]

Thanks buddy! Too damn cold (8ºF) to go play with it now, but hopefully I'll be able to track down the problem. The more I think about it, the more I want to put some streetable DCOEs on it, but the manifolds seemed to have dried up. Don't make me T5 this bitch!

[DrewP]

So... I just picked up an early N/A 9000 manifold on eBay (seller turned out to be Kevin Yankton) because it has the intake flange for a B202 and rubber couplers to hold on the runners and plenum. Looks a super simple way to make a Weber or ITB injected intake for a 16V head. Too bad there's not something similar for the B20.

Just get that DC/AC Everlast welder and some flanges and make one!

[Jordan]

Ha.... this one?

At least there is a sort of injection (d-jet) manifold for b201s . Luke makes a rail to use standard bosch injectors I think.

[DrewP]

Let the ITB's commence! It'll either be this flange modified, or a T7 manifold modified for the kick-ass N/A motor I want to build next. 11:1 compression might be enough? Maybe need more.

[Jordan]

I think you need more displacement

[Crazyswede]

Thanks buddy! Too damn cold (8ºF) to go play with it now, but hopefully I'll be able to track down the problem. The more I think about it, the more I want to put some streetable DCOEs on it, but the manifolds seemed to have dried up. Don't make me T5 this bitch!

Luke has the link to a swedish site that sells DCOE intakes for 8v and 16v motors.

[Jordan]

Only ones I've heard of are Janspeed, Mangoletsi, MSS and Misab. None of which I can find a listing for.