1986 SPG

[hutch]

Paul has a good solution for fine tuning the crank reference angle by going into the software. Should not have to mess with that to get it to start and run.
Even if it is off by 10 degrees it should still run. It might be running for a short period of time because the ECU fires all ignitions at startup, so it can sync number one cylinder to see if it is on the exhaust or compression stroke.

Thats sort of what it feels like its doing, basically as if I had the distributor clocked all wrong and the timing was way off (which I suppose I do), the car will run but then bog down and stall out after 3 maybe 4 seconds if I don't keep on the throttle lightly. Unfortunately even when it does run for a few seconds the tach still does not work so something still seems off, but I certainly have very little knowledge being as I've never even driven a T5 car. But that's good to know that you can change the crank reference angle to get it to run, unfortunately I'm having trouble with the CANUSB cable at the moment but that should be relatively easy to fix (just like I thought the trionic install was a long weekend job )

I have the first batch of pulley kits, I believe its solid back there. I'd certainly love to not have to drill anything out as I can't see that being good in the long run, I just wasn't sure you could change the crank angle.

And yeah the wheel looks just like the picture, at TDC the -2 wheel sits at roughly 1 o'clock if viewed through the firewall and the 20th tooth sits at about 10 or 11 o'clock. My only problem is the sensor sits above the 18th or so tooth.

If I haven't said it recently thanks again for all of the collective wisdom on this board, god knows how much further from success I'd be without you smart minds.

[squaab99t]

You are getting there. It use to really hack me when some internet racer would say "Just T5 it." This not like bolting on an in the engine bay, "cold air intake".

I'm really wondering why it will not stay running. It is the same kit everyone else is running. Sounds like it is getting signal to start. As the wheel speeds up the VR signal gets stronger. Physics there.
Is the fuel pump stay running after start up? What do the plugs look like after it stalls?
Any pictures of your in process install? A little CSI from the collective might help?

If it where me I would not start mucking with the ECU just yet. Turn too many knobs and you won't know the cause and effect.

If you are really set on clocking the wheel. Put slots in the steel trigger wheel not the hub. Less work and easier to revert back. Once you are happy with the angle, drill a full hole and, bolt to keep it from slipping.

[Geoff]

I don't know a lot about T5 or installing on a C900 but...
You say when the engine is at TDC the trigger wheel is off by 2 teeth? Are you sure the engine is at TDC? Did you install a 9000 flywheel? The TDC reference mark on a 9000 flywheel isn't in the same spot as the TDC mark on a C900 flywheel.

Also, can you check pulses from the CPS with a multimeter to verify its working?

[hutch]

Any pictures of your in process install? A little CSI from the collective might help?

Yeah a few days ago I took a picture of every component and it's connector to show you all in case I was missing something obvious, like when I had the injectors connected 4321 instead of 1234. I'm on my phone right now so I can't upload them but will when I get home tonight.

I don't know a lot about T5 or installing on a C900 but...
You say when the engine is at TDC the trigger wheel is off by 2 teeth? Are you sure the engine is at TDC? Did you install a 9000 flywheel? The TDC reference mark on a 9000 flywheel isn't in the same spot as the TDC mark on a C900 flywheel.

Also, can you check pulses from the CPS with a multimeter to verify its working?

I certainly didn't swap in a different flywheel, it's entirely possible it's been done but I doubt it as I verified the camshafts are also lined up with the flywheel at TDC. I will definitely try to see if the CPS is working though.

[hutch]

Photos, lousy lighting but obviously the car can't go outside too easily...
ECU and SFI connector (wasn't sure if it was necessary to ground ECU but figured I should)

Relays

Power leads and O2 sensors

Fuel Pump leads (have the connector from the LH harness that will go on once I'm sure it's running correctly)

MAP sensor

IAT and TPS

AIC, Injectors, and Coolant sensor

Infamous CPS wheel, the tooth where I scratched the paint off is the 20th

[hutch]

So can anyone give some tips on how to properly connect with the CANUSB?

I downloaded the CANUSB driver available on the T5Suite homepage, I plugged in the SFI connector, the DB9 connectors, and the USB into the computer. (note the lights aren't flashing)


Then I open this program and click on 'Read ECU'


That green bar eventually finishes and 'downloading BIN' appears yet nothing happens, no lights flash up on the Lawicel and the program reads 0 bytes transferred, 0 bytes/second and so on. The same thing happens when I open T5Suite, when I click on connect to ECU I get a message saying 'Failed to open CANUSB connection' or something to that effect.

I'm pretty sure I have everything connected properly, the guy I bought this from said he used it several times and I've quadruple checked the wiring to it and it seems right to me. I have the 2 CAN wires with a resistor twisted together and a ground wire all connected to the right place. Do I need to supply +15V to be able to read it when it's in the car?

[DrewP]

The ECU does need to be powered to communicate with it.

[hutch]

Cool, thanks.

Is that the SFI Pin 6 +15V (Programming Voltage) they talk about in the manual I assume then?

Edit: that's probably a stupid question now that I look at it. My SFI connector already had a pin there but the wire wasn't connected to the DB9, is it true that you can connect +15V to pin 1 or 9 on the DB9?

[Jordan]

If your connecting it in the car through the serial port no addition power or ground is required. Just hook up canl and canh. The ecm is already powered with the ignition on and constant power as long as the battery is plugged in.

[Jordan]

Back from vacation.... The adapter should flash when it is plugged into the computer, does it do that?

If it does, and all the drivers are loaded properly, you should be able to turn the ignition on, fire up T5Suite and click the Connect to ECM button (sometimes it doesn't work the first time for me). All I have hooked up is the CANH and CANL wires. The 15v+ power and ground are only needed for programming , not for reading. The ECU will already be getting constant and ignition power.

Another variable you can check off the list is VSS? You might have to turn that off in order to get the ECM to trigger the relays.

[hutch]

No it doesn't seem to flash ever, so I guess it's entirely possible it is busted or something. The guy I bought it from said he only used it a few times and I believe him because it looks practically brand new, but who knows.

Ive got the day off so I'm actually gonna be doing some more trouble shooting on the car this afternoon, including trying another laptop just in case. I'll also try to take a video of everything to show you guys to maybe give some insight.

I was curious about the VSS stuff as well, but what's strange is the car does run for a second or two. It also should be noted the ECU is out of an automatic '94 9000 but I didn't think it made a big enough difference to get it running.

[Jordan]

If the adapter doesnt flash then im guessing there is a problem with it. I used mine once or twice and it died or shorted out. But they sent me a new one.

I'm not sure of about the auto thing , or vss for that matter. Conceivably, If doesnt allow the pump to run but the rail is already primed, it may run for a second. Do you have another ecm you could try?

[hutch]

Took a quick video, not that it will really help without reading engine data but why not...


I'm not sure how much audio survived photobucket but you can see it starts and then when I keep my foot ever so slightly on the gas it will idle but as soon as I let off it dies off after a second or so which you can see in the video. After that I hear what sounds like a hissing sound that I think is something to do with the fuel system so maybe there is still some electrical fault. I'm still leaning towards the CPS just being off a few teeth being the root problem.

Jordan I remember you saying something about yours breaking, did you send it back in to Lawicel? I'd be surprised if they would honor a warranty since I didn't buy it from there but I suppose I should at least shoot them an email.

[Jordan]

Yeah it doesn't sound so good. Like timing is off or something, but maybe the video quality. Does it sound normal to you at first?

I sent my cable back, but it took a while....between shipping overseas back and forth at least a month.

[hutch]

It sounds just like when I had to redo the timing from scratch after a head swap, probably because the CPS is likely around 12 degrees off. Other than that it actually feels pretty smooth when it revs a bit compared with the big injectors and LH.

Maybe I should try to pick up a BDM in the short term or get one of those multi adaptors from the European guy. Either way I'll need to pick up another ECU at some point so maybe I'll check around online or hit up a junkyard.