My rallyX practice car

[V4_guy]

A pair of Autopals with H4 bulbs are about $40/shipped on eBay, I figure at that price you can't go wrong. Like I said, this project is on the cheap, saving my money for the 96.

[V4_guy]

So I registered and insured this car today. To my surprise and delight, USAA, the insurance company that tried so hard to screw me on my claim, never officially totaled it still has a clear title. This means I won't have to go through the pain in the ass process of filing paperwork and getting it inspected for a rebuilt title.

I also just registered for my first rallyX event on March 24 near Indianapolis, IN. I entered the Stock FWD category since this car is stock except for the skid plate which is allowed in that class. I'll be running a set of fairly fresh Hankook snow tires.

I still have to finish putting it back together this weekend, installing the radiator, headlights, grille, turn signals, etc. I think I'm also going to change all of the old brake hoses as I got a new set right before the wreck and didn't have a chance to put them in.

I am very stoked, can't wait to drive it like I stole it in the dirt.

[SwedeSport]

Make sure you get someone to take pics.

It doesn't look like our region is going to do any RallyX this year. The guy who was in charge of the program doesn't have time due to his job.


I may have to look into other surrounding regions for events.

[V4_guy]

Yeah, we don't have any in our region in either, this is the closest one to me and it is a two-hour drive.

I'd like to rig up an in-car mount for my Flip HD cam.

[Geoff]

Seems to be a recurring theme with your "totalled" C900s

Have fun holding the car in second gear! I recommend doing whatever you can go improve the motor mounts before you go. Does it have a hydraulic front mount or the old barrel style? Fill the barrel ones with some stiff goop. For the hydraulic mounts you can sometimes remove the rubber limiter on top and put a piece of wood between the transmission cover and the metal limiter strap. A rogue piece of lumber stuck in your motor mount shouldn't bump you to Prepared

[V4_guy]

Yes, my "totaled" 900s seem to get great second lives as cheap rallyX beaters with clean titles.

It has a barrel-type front mount (that I replaced with new a few years ago) and brand new side hydraulic mounts.

What kind of stiff goop would you recommend for the front mount?

[Crazyswede]

Yes, my "totaled" 900s seem to get great second lives as cheap rallyX beaters with clean titles.

It has a barrel-type front mount (that I replaced with new a few years ago) and brand new side hydraulic mounts.

What kind of stiff goop would you recommend for the front mount?

JB weld or 5 minute epoxy would work.

[Geoff]

JB weld or 5 minute epoxy would work.

Or some stiff urethane caulk.
Go into the hardware store and tell them you're looking for hard caulk.
Epoxy/JB Weld will want to run out of the sides if you've got the mount in the car so you'll want to put some modeling clay on the sides of the mount to keep it from running out until it dries. The caulk would probably sit in place better as it hardens. You can sometimes find caulk in a paste form in a can, that would be easy to work with.

On the 9000 I used some two part 94A (hard) urethane casting compound I bought from McMaster a while back for another project. I wouldn't recommend it only because it's expensive. It was also runny (like epoxy) so I had to do the modeling clay trick too.

[V4_guy]

I agree, a big thick tube of hard caulk would really stiffen things up in this situation.

A friend of mine recommended 3M Windo-Weld.

[Jordan]

I agree, a big thick tube of hard caulk would really stiffen things up in this situation.

A friend of mine recommended 3M Windo-Weld.

Does it come in black?

[SwedeSport]

Ha Ha,

Big, Thick, Hard, Black Caulk really gets you guys going...

[DrewP]

I like my caulk how I like my SAABs - strong, & black.

(I also tell people I like my coffee how I like my SAABs.)

[Geoff]

[V4_guy]

I was hoping to get the car all together this weekend but experienced a few delays. First, while drilling holes for the hood pin plates the drill slipped and the bit broke and went right into my left thumb, spent two hours in the urgent care center getting that taken care of. Lesson: don't use the plate as a template to drill the holes, mark them with a Sharpie, ya dummy!

I also had to take the clutch assembly out to replace the throwout bearing, it had been making noise before the crash and so I had a new one to put in. I discovered the clutch disc had a broken/missing spring on it. Fortunately, there is a local place where I can get the flywheel machined, and a new pressure plate, clutch, and throwout bearing for just over $100, a friend of mine got them for his '90 900S a few weeks ago: http://www.kyclutch.com/

With a hammer I was able to get the hood to fit just right and I installed the front air dam and headlights, those $40 Autopals (Indian Hella copies), and they look damn good. Also got the turn signals and grille mounted. The left front bumper mount is pretty bad so I'm just going to go bumperless, will look good with the Turbo air dam. A few days ago I took out the front motor mount and filled it full of 3M Windo Weld, it seems to have cured nicely and hopefully this will help things stay put up front.

I should get it all back together by the middle of the week so that I can drive it a bit before my first event this coming Saturday:

[SwedeSport]

Im gonna run my 84 notchback racer without bumpers. I will probably weld a tube between the bumper mounts just inside the fascia . I think the bumper helps stiffen the front end by tying those 4 points together. Might be a bit flexy without it.