89T Daily Beater Project

[Jordan]

T5 and T7 flywheels are actually a lot lighter than the c900 ones. The hanging revs is all the software doing a lean burn on off throttle. :)

[DeLorean]

What is the weight on the T7 9-5 flywheels, are they hollow or something? I just pulled one today, They look freaking gigantic to me... like double the thickness of a C-900 unit.

[hutch]

Really? Did not know that, it certainly feels like its heavier, I've always heard the 9-5 ones were especially enormous. I guess its the electric throttle that is whats responsible for that. Either way, I'd still have a normal one for a daily driver and a lightened one for the fun car. They are a lot of fun to drive

[Jordan]

I'll take a T7 weight next week when I pull the transmission off my 9-3.. The T5 ones are definitely lighter and a smaller diameter, Even the 9-3 SS ones are smaller in diameter...I'd say lighter as well, but I'll put the fedex scale to use. :)

[SwedeSport]

I have a lightened flywheel in my 86 8v. I think it started off around 21 lbs. I had almost 7 lbs shaved off that. Really helped the throttle response.

I ordered a T5 flywheel from eEuro for the 85t project. I chose to lighten this one.

The 89 is just a beater. So went with an unlightened unit to save a few bucks. I am also cheaping out on the clutch and getting the stock size unit. I am putting it together initially running on LH. I needed to retain. The timing marks, and lightening would have wiped that out. I am going to complete the T5 conversion at a later date.

[Jordan]

Put a T7 9-3 flywheel on the FedEx Scale: 15.45lbs
'94 9000 T5: 20.15 lbs
C900 I've weighed between 20.5 and 22lb

[SwedeSport]

Preparing for a weekend project.

[hutch]

You'll likely have everything apart already as is for the clutch, but from the two times I've messed with the CPS now I can advise you to take the extra minute or two and remove the factory airbox as it gives you much more room to maneuver around down there when you're getting the gap right. (I know you said you weren't going full T5 at the moment)

Also, I see you have a little 'sleeve' on the CPS and the wires coming from it, is this what they have in a stock T5 car or did you add that? Just curious as mine doesn't have that and I've never seen pictures of the part on any websites that have that.

[SwedeSport]

I do not have the airbox out of the car at the moment, but it is only one screw to remove it from the car at this point. I am still pretty far apart from the engine / trans swap that it in progress. I have to change out the starter, as I busted the plastic casting on the back of the solenoid as I was tightening the cable from the battery. I hope to get most of the stuff together Saturday, so that I can fill the fluids, and try cranking it over. If all goes well it will be together and running again on LH this weekend.

I am moving my business and garage into a new place, and I have my hands full with a major relocation project. I just need to get it running for now. I'll attack the T5 wiring project in another phase.




That is how the CPS came from eEuroparts. What is a good starting point for the gap?

[hutch]

Stock is something like .4-.11mm from what I remember, I have mine at a little over .8mm and it seems to have a good signal but it sounds like there can be some variability with different sensors to get the right signals.

Now that I think about it I think I recognize that little CPS cover from my 9-3, that's a good idea.

[Jordan]

Stock is 0.4 - 1.25mm. The CPS Jason has looks like the Facet brand, which has a molded plastic case instead of metal. It also has that little big of protective sleeving.

[SwedeSport]

I did notice that it touches the bracket on one side. I am wondering if a little trimming is in order? It was hard to get the screw into the CPS hole. The screw is a bit too short as well.

[Jordan]

The screw can't be any longer as the OE sensors must have a thinner ear. So the screw would go beyond flush which would interfere with the start plate, I'll take a look though, maybe a longer screw with a washer for different the other sensor might be required. Touching the bracket is OK, very close tolerances in there! It is easiest to mount the sensor to the bracket first then attach it to the block.

[SwedeSport]

It must be due to the thicker sensor bolt flange, but it's only catching half the threads.

I think I am going to clearance the side of the bracket anyway. You can see in the photo that the interference is causing the sensor to sit crooked in the bracket.

[SwedeSport]

Did not get to the garage til after dinner tonight so I did not get as far as I would have liked.

Took a flat file to the sensor bracket and beveled it a little to gain some clearance. Dug up a torx screw that was close to the right length, then shortened it accordingly. I also found the Allen head bolts that attach the bracket to the block interfere with the sensor, so I shaved a little plastic from the corner where the head was touching. I managed to set the gap to .4-.5 mm . I'll take a shot in the dark on it , as it seems pretty easy to adjust if it needs it.

Flywheel is on and I spun the motor to verify I had it timed correctly. Hoping to button the top end up, Check torque, and put the valve cover back on. Should have the clutch stuff in tomorrow. I have my doubts about the spare starter I put in, but I have another one somewhere.

Tomorrow is another day...