1978 EMS Freshen Up (Formerly Rally Build)

[MattWatson]

So, I figured I should start a build thread, since I have gathered quite a few parts, and am now going to start getting things together, and I have some money set aside for this.

The History:

Last year around this time, my SAAB mechanic (used to own the service center portion of the dealership here in Calgary before SAAB was bought by GM) found himself with a 1978 99 EMS that the parts manager has purchased new, and had kept since then. He put some parts into it, then decided he didn’t need another SAAB (he has a 900, 2 9000s, and about 4 parts cars) so he just wanted what he put into it in parts. Really, he knew I was going to rally it, used to race Triumphs in Ireland, and thought it was a fitting new beginning for the car.

Fast forward almost a year and I finally pick the thing up. Took it to my friendly neighborhood inspection shop, to get it safety’d ( a 1 time thing here in Alberta), and got insurance on it. I can and do drive it occasionally.

The Good:
• Strong Motor
• New Clutch, Alternator, Brakes (they are going anyway)
• A crap load of dealer options on the car or in the trunk
• Very little rust compared to some of the cars here

The Bad:
• Some electrical issues with draw when sitting (shocker)
• Swiss cheese exhaust (really, with what I am planning, who cares?)
• Interior is in much too nice shape for what I am planning.
• General shape is much too nice for what I am planning.

The Plan:

I am interested in starting in rallying, and am fairly mechanically inclined, so when I bought it, I decided it would be a stage rally car. I plan on doing the standard modifications including 900 rear axle (if I can find one that actually will come off), Wilwoods, 86t hubs and vented rotors, Dual masters, boxed front a-arms, some sort of dif, cage etc.

For a motor, I am debating swapping a B202 Motor (havn’t decided turbo vs NA, I have low/no mileage versions of both available to me) or just leaving the NA B motor that is there (I have access to another low mileage spare). The existing motor has headers, and I think a uprated or different cam, since I have a jackshaft box with a cam labeled original EMS cam. If I stay with the B motor I know of an electric water pump kit that has been sitting for a while with an early 900 B motor car, which they have never swapped in.

If I do an NA motor (H or B) I have an extra 800$ to spend on other upgrades, since I would likely buy a rebuilt motor a friend has if I went turbo.

I will post up some pictures tonight of all the various bits and pieces, since these intro posts arn't worth much without them
EDIT: Added a picture :), More Below.

[MattWatson]

So, as for the wilwoods, for those in the know, I am looking at the following part numbers:

2x :120-11572 Forged Narrow Dynalite - Front
2x :120-8724 Radial Powerlite - Rear

I would love to order these ASAP since there is lead time on the Dynalite. Unless someone has a better source then summit.

and BP-10 Pads 150-8813K and 150-8946K
(Oddly the 8946k don't say they are specifically for the Dynalite, but that is the part number that was on the wilwood site...)

I know I will also need 1/8NPT adapters for the calipers.

So, in a couple of Jordan's threads, he indicated that it was best to go to -3AN from the calipers, then from the 10mm on the body to -3, then use -3AN brake lines. Do stock length lines work, or should I go for more length? Rear, I like Lukes solution of flex to the rear calipers so that everything can be serviced without removing the lines. I assume there I will just get an -3AN bulkhead fitting and flair the solid line to that.

This is what I was thinking

Front:
Caliper 1/8" Female--> 1/8NPT to -3AN --> -3AN Brake Line --> -3AN to 10mm --> Existing bulkhead fitting 10mm

Rear: Caliper 1/8" Female --> 1/8NTP to -3AN --> -3AN Brake Line --> -3 AN T Fitting --> -3AN Brake Line --> -3AN to 10mm --> Existing bulkhead fitting 10mm

On the rear, is there any point to going shorter on the flex lines and doing solid tubing, or just do flex the whole way to the T?

[Luke]

Awesome!

I am excited to have a new build thread to follow!
You'll need to get some picture up soon though!

On the brake lines - I think you've got the right ideas, except the rear "bulkhead" fitting on the standard car is just a really long fitting on the hose. So the easiest thing would be to do a -3 bulkhead fitting there and reflare the hardline inside the car to fit.

I like the setting everything up to use -3 lines because that way a whole set of replacement lines is $40 and can be sourced quickly from anywhere or assembled with re-useable fitting on-site (I carry a few spare fittings)

The softlines from the rear axle to the calipers have come in handy more than a few times. You could do softline all the way to the T too, just be carefull to secure it really well where stuff cant hit it, Jordan had an issue where a soft line got cut.


On the motor. I would lean heavily towards the NA choices. Actually that's required for a novice rally driver in the US, not sure about CARS event. I say that because especially in a 99, its just so much simpler, lighter and more reliable that I think you'll have more fun learning to drive the car that way. That not what I did, but I didn't originally build my car for rally - it just sorta turned into that... and that was before you had to have a certain number of events under your belt with low HP car to drive a turbo. The B-motors can be really peppy with some cams and headers. Also people are doing some really cool things with "t7" heads and trionic on the B202, and I'm sure there's a fairly potent NA motor to be built with the right combination of factory parts and a good tune.

[MattWatson]

Awesome!

I am excited to have a new build thread to follow!
You'll need to get some picture up soon though!

I know I keep procrastinating here because our weather has been so bad, but I am going to do it tonight, I swear!

On the brake lines - I think you've got the right ideas, except the rear "bulkhead" fitting on the standard car is just a really long fitting on the hose. So the easiest thing would be to do a -3 bulkhead fitting there and reflare the hardline inside the car to fit.

Noted, that sounds easiest.

On the motor. I would lean heavily towards the NA choices. Actually that's required for a novice rally driver in the US, not sure about CARS event.

I'm going to phone on this one, because I can't find it in the rulebook anywhere... but I know that RA had it, and CARS tends to not be too far behind (ie the same drive config still stands in canada but I know it has been removed for the US), so I wouldn't be surpised if it ends up that way in the end.

The B-motors can be really peppy with some cams and headers. Also people are doing some really cool things with "t7" heads and trionic on the B202, and I'm sure there's a fairly potent NA motor to be built with the right combination of factory parts and a good tune.

That was the way I was leaning... I am almost 100% sure my B motor has a cam already and I wouldn't be surpised if it has more... it revs almost 2-3 times faster than my SPG... I know some of that is the turbo... but still. It also has the huge advantage of already being there, and for a small cost I could get the electric water pump locally too.

I can get a low milage NA 16v almost free and a T5 head free.

So I guess those two are likely going to be the way to go... at least for now.

[MattWatson]

Some pictures!

[MattWatson]

More:

[MattWatson]

Interior:

[MattWatson]

Extras!:
Anyone have any idea what the black document looking holder thingy (technical term) is?

[MattWatson]

"Original Cam", and some valve shims :D

[SwedeSport]

Wow!,... that thing is pretty nice. think I would drive it like it is.

[MattWatson]

Wow!,... that thing is pretty nice. think I would drive it like it is.

Aaaaannndddd now you hit on my back and forth with regards to this car... I flip flop on it weekly. I will likely fix up the rust, redo the suspension, brakes, engine, etc, THEN put the cage in it haha.

[paulh]

The black plastic bit is the super rare trash can, mounts under the passenger seat. Looks like a nice car!

Paul

[EvanB]

You wanna trade for an already stripped 99?

[Jordan]

Yeah no sense in destroying a unique car like that. Do fun stuff, suspension, brakes, whatever... but I'd keep it looking like that. Find another shell with a ratty interior and no sunroof.

[SwedeSport]

It looks nicer than some of the 900s I've dragged home.