Orange 1974 99

[kuponut]

The weekend before last I got the orange one running, it had a huge exhaust manifold leak, was missing two bolts. Got hardware for that and sealed it up, the car seemed to run well...

The clutch slave is much kaputt! The piston is probably seized, and the internals looked pretty rusted. Spgftw delivered a b-motor and transmission when he was in town picking up a 900... it is a later 4-speed gear driven transmission, but with concentric slave. Hoping to go through it maybe and plop it into the orange one...

The monday after I got the orange one running, I drove up to Scanwest to pick up a 001 distributor for D-JET, since mine has the 007 for Carb'd triumph engines. Craig there mentioned that the black '78 99 turbo on the rack was for sale, and that the owner had a 2nd gray '78 99 turbo for parts. From what I understood, both cars have stripped jackshafts/water pump gears. Apparently it had been sitting for sale at Scanwest since June or longer.

The black one has like 280,000 miles on it and was a daily driver and a take-the-dogs-to-park car, and it shows, but at the same it does look like its been taken care of. Many dings, repaints in spots throughout the entire exterior, rear hatch is from a 900, door panels and front seats come from a 1984 900. Rust bubbling underneath the rear window trim. Some through rust in the top of the passenger door frame. I did not notice any rust anywhere else.

If the waterpump and jackshaft gears are chomped up, might be able to use the ones from the B-motor that spgftw dropped off.

I haven't seen the gray one yet, the owner told me that it was in better shape than the black one, with 96,000 miles. They don't have the title for it though, they bought it as a parts car and had been using it to keep the black one running.



The plan is to hopefully get both back onto the road in the future.... I will just post all of the 99 stuff in this thread, no need to make another project thread..

[Crazyswede]

$250 and you can convert to the electric water pump. Works very well and is better than stock. Also prevents you having to pull a motor.

[nutcase]

I'm not convinced about these electric waterpumps. Probably more efficient, but just not right - I have no scientific basis to my feelings

[Crazyswede]

I'm not convinced about these electric waterpumps. Probably more efficient, but just not right - I have no scientific basis to my feelings

Its like praying to god instead of taking the antibiotics. They do work amazingly well.

[kuponut]

If the jackshaft and waterpump gears are stripped, is there any chance that fragments could get into the engine block and cause trouble?

I'm having trouble finding a link to an electric waterpump guide for the B-engine as well, the links I found no longer work.

I guess depending on the gray one's condition, the black one could be used as a good template to get it running again. Just hope that I could eventually get a title for it. I just don't know what was taken out of the gray one to service the black one.

I was a bit hesitant about the D-JET on the orange car, I figured that since they only used it for two years, then went to the CIS system, that they had problems with it. After reading a bit on here and on the Saabnet 99 board, it sounds like while it is very picky, the system sounds like it is actually pretty good and such.

The orange one rides so much higher than anything I've seen, looks like it would do great in high snowfall.

[Crazyswede]

When you remove your damaged water pump you need to take a magnet and fish out as much of the damaged gear teeth as you can get. There is always a risk that something will have migrated but you should be able to get most of it. If anything got away it should be in the sump.

Davies Craig is the company that makes the poplular pump model EWP80.
http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electric_ ... ntent.aspx

Looks like the 99 write up is gone but I remember what I had to do to install mine and I think Jordan is running one...or was running one.

I have some photos somewhere...its a pretty straight forwards install though

I did see the mention about the electric water pump conversion in Nutcase's waterpump rebuild guide. If the jackshaft and waterpump gears are stripped, is there any chance that fragments could get into the engine block and cause trouble?

I'm having trouble finding a link to an electric waterpump guide for the B-engine as well, the links I found no longer work.

I guess depending on the gray one's condition, the black one could be used as a good template to get it running again. Just hope that I could eventually get a title for it. I just don't know what was taken out of the gray one to service the black one.

I was a bit hesitant about the D-JET on the orange car, I figured that since they only used it for two years, then went to the CIS system, that they had problems with it. After reading a bit on here and on the Saabnet 99 board, it sounds like while it is very picky, the system sounds like it is actually pretty good and such.

The orange one rides so much higher than anything I've seen, looks like it would do great in high snowfall.

[kuponut]

A few weeks ago I had happened to read that electric water pump conversion guide, it just seems to be down now.

eBay has many listings for these Davies Craig water pumps... $207 or so for the EWP80 (found an autoparts store that sells it for $195 free shipping no tax).

What are the thoughts on spending extra for a pump with a controller? The Pump with controller kits (EWP80 8007, EWP115 8030, and EWP115 8050) are all the same price on eBay pretty much, like $380. The EWP115 seems to be a little bigger, has a higher stated flow rate, and expected motor life of 7000~ with controller as opposed to the EWP80 which is 6000 hours expected. And then, the EWP115 8050 has an aluminum body while the other two are the nylon-plastic body. All three of these are basically the same price. Bigger is better?

Either way, I hope to explore the waterpump cover this weekend and do some excavation for gear bits and pieces!

[Mezzanine]

I can't comment on the size of the pumps, but I can tell you that the controller is a MUST...I've burned up two or three of those pumps while operating without the controller. Be careful to get the pump installed as low as possible to increase the volume of water available to the suction side.

[kuponut]

I haven't really made any progress on the Orange Car. I did receive a set of Green EMS-style seats when I picked up the second 99 Turbo, so will probably put them in the Orange one for now since the driver's seat is broken. Great color combo.

I did pick up that second '78 99 Turbo, gray or silver color. 100,000 miles, non-running with a few nests in the engine bay. It came with tons of parts, the owner actually found some more recently and I need to visit soon. Loaded it up with all of the parts, since the hatch would pop open easily and I didn't want to litter the highways with saab stuff, I locked the hatch. When it got to the destination, the hatch wouldn't open, even though it locks and unlocks.

Regarding the Black 99 Turbo... I ordered the Aluminum body EWP115 with controller from THMotorsports for $350 with 5% off coupon. No tax, free shipping. Just facing set-backs, not being able to find the proper size hose, since apparently the Aluminum pump has larger diameter outlets than the plastic EWP80 and the stock coolant hoses. I ordered more parts over the weekend since none of the auto parts stores had any of the correct stuff, so this coming weekend, hopefully, finally.

I have attached the EWP conversion guide below as well, that website came back up.

A week and a half ago I bought a 1988 9000 Turbo, dark Gray exterior with gray interior, 165,000 miles. It was at a dealership for $1000 (very nice dealership too, most of the cars were stored inside in their large show room, not many used car dealers have showrooms!). The dealer stated that the issues were that it needed a new clutch and new tires. The clutch would engage very near the floor. I test drove it, and it was great in all gears, ran great, etc. On a whim, I took it to a parking lot and tried reverse out. Reverse would make a loud whining sound and would pop out when you would floor it. When I brought it back to the dealer, he said "Well, how often do you need reverse?" So he knew he was caught... I offered $500 for it, he said $750. We settled on $700 total, that included all taxes and registration fees. I drove it home, bled the clutch, and its been great so far. The only blemishes are some rust bubbling under the paint in the corner of the doors where the drain holes are I guess. The interior and exterior are in great shape, rear seats are faded a little, fronts were underneath a seat cover. I have a set of brand new tires on directional wheels that came with the wrecked convertible, so that issue is taken care of.

Here's pics of the 9000, not very good pics though.... https://picasaweb.google.com/1176115499 ... mber132012

[kuponut]

I'm not very good at keeping updated, but I did eventually get the EWP installed on the black 99 Turbo. The car runs great and drives straight. I did remove the thermostat since I had got the controller for the EWP, I installed the temperature sensor just after the thermostat housing. I have the controller set at 85 degrees C, but it rarely seems to reach that high of a temperature, the pump seems to be keeping it too cool. Perhaps removing the thermostat was a mistake?

The exhaust pipe also bellows out a significant amount of white clouds while warming up, and it ceases to do so once the car reaches operating temperature. There is also noticeable coolant loss. There does not appear to be any oil-coolant mixing though.

I have a few questions regarding head gaskets on B-motors.

1. Since the cylinder head is presumably post-'76, the camshaft gear should be able to be bolted into its mount, allowing the camshaft to be unbolted from the camshaft gear for removal? There's no need to undo the 'transmission chain' (timing chain... but my manual calls it transmission chain) tensioner? to remove the head, you can just lift the head out, leaving the camshaft gear bolted to its mount with the chain still tensioned?

2. Does the B-motor block have small dowels for locating the head gasket and cylinder head like the 16V-engine does? Or do you need proper locating studs? My 1992 totaled convertible came with... I think two metal long Cylinder head dowel screws for what I would guess is the 16V engine. Would these work on the B-motor, or do the cylinder head bolts have different threads and such? (I heard many of the earlier 99 hardware threads were standard instead of metric?)

3. It appears from the manuals I have, that there are two bolts that screw the cylinder head to the timing chain cover. It also looks like the two bolts screw into the timing chain cover from Above, is that correct? I just remember the two inconvenient bolts on the 16V engine screwing in from below. So aside from the engine mount bolt(s), manifolds, hoses, etc, the only bolts holding the cylinder head to the block are the 10head bolts and the two timing cover bolts?

4. The manual states that the cylinder head bolts are to be tightened in two stages, Stage1: 60 nm, Stage2: 95 nm. It then says to do the 'final' tightening after letting the engine cool for 30 minutes. Is Stage 2 the final tightening? Or do I do both stages before running the engine and letting it cool, then retighten them to the 95 nm again (So I guess my question would be.... do the screws loosen back up after running the engine and just need to be retightened again?). I then do this again at 2K and 10K kilometers?


Kind of unrelated: Does anyone know of any creative solutions for accessing the coolant drain cock for the engine block? I had a hard time reaching it with all of the extra bits in that area on the Turbo engine. Or is the best way to just remove the exhaust manifold?

[Jordan]

1. Yes

2. Yes dowels. Motors are metric

3. Can't recall

4. Usually it is two stages of torque and a final torque-to-angle turn (90º). It shouldn't need to be re-torqued with a modern gasket.

[kuponut]

On the 1978 99 Turbo..... Is there coolant flow through the Warm-up regulator? I discovered a pool of coolant beneath the slave/clutch/flywheel area on top of the Primary housing.

The photo shows the wet area on the Warm-up regulator, and where it is dripping (onto a paper towel). I just wasn't sure if the coolant runs down from where the thermostat housing meets the cylinder head and just happens to drip from the Warm-up regulator.

I looked at K-Jet manual and Warm-up Regulator Repair at this link... http://www.ferrari400parts.com/kjetdownload.php

I don't notice any coolant path in the pictures showing the Regulator taken apart in the repair guide.

Page 18 (Section 16: Mixture Adaptation; Warm Up) of the K-Jet manual says that the Warm-up regulator is "so fitted that it ultimately adopts the engine temperature." Is that done through just the metal-to-metal contact with the thermostat housing/cylinder head, or is there a coolant path?