Project Loki - 1988 classic SAAB turbo

[Geoff]

Does anyone know what dimension the stuf that goes to the trans is?

What?

Other things:
1) Side mounts and front mounts are dimensionally the same, the fronts are stiffer

2) Because you have those crummy passive seat belts your seats are different than other C900 seats. The mounting bolt pattern is different so the floors are different. They're actually the same as on 9000s. I don't know about swapping other C900 seats in but due to their front/back adjustment I think that feature in the body of the car will be missing. If your replacement seats aren't the same style you may want to find some from a 9000 and add the flip-forward lever to get into the back seats.

3) The sunroofs motors are known for the back covers falling off which lets the plastic gears flop around and strip. Take the motor out and have a look. There's an old Jaguar that uses the same gear set but they're metal. I don't know what it is though. You could consider removing the sunroof and putting in a panel. You'll save about 80 lbs from the top of the car.

4) When you get into the electric windows also squirt a bunch of PB Blaster on the motor between the steel gear and aluminum body. Let it penetrate and hit it with a hammer. Corrosion between the dissimilar metals causes friction to slow the windows. Sometimes you have to take the motors apart and clean them but if they're still working (just slow) I wouldn't open them up.

5) Does the car run continuously with the switch in place of the relay? The car shutting off after running for a while sounds like a Bosch fuel pump failing. To check, pull the fuel filter and drain it out the entry-port into a clean container. Look for metal flakes (parts of the failing pump)

6) If you make your own front mount, keep in mind that I'm pretty sure 2xB≠A (Transmission bolt not equidistant from body bolts)

[Luke]

Does anyone know what dimension the stuf that goes to the trans is?

What?

Other things:
1) Side mounts and front mounts are dimensionally the same, the fronts are stiffer

Pretty sure the side mounts have a slightly different offset to the center stud than the front mounts. I measured some critically when I was thinking of doing a run of more durable ones for motorsport use.

[Adrian Thompson]

Does anyone know what dimension the stuf that goes to the trans is?

What?

Stud, not stuf!!! As in M12, M13 etc, I should have proof read before hitting post!!!

[Adrian Thompson]

5) Does the car run continuously with the switch in place of the relay? The car shutting off after running for a while sounds like a Bosch fuel pump failing. To check, pull the fuel filter and drain it out the entry-port into a clean container. Look for metal flakes (parts of the failing pump)

Yes it seems too. I haven't run it for more than 10 mins or so, but the PO said once he'd put the switch in, it would run indefinatly, I think he even drove to Pa and back one like that.

[Geoff]

Pretty sure the side mounts have a slightly different offset to the center stud than the front mounts. I measured some critically when I was thinking of doing a run of more durable ones for motorsport use.

Yeah, that would matter with hard mounts. I've put front hydraulic mounts on the sides before but since they were flexible there didn't seem to be an issue putting them in. It would suck to make a run of hard mounts and end up that you couldn't get them in on the sides once a hard front mount was put in.

[Geoff]

Stud, not stuf!!! As in M12, M13 etc, I should have proof read before hitting post!!!

The solid kit that Crazyswede posted above uses a 1/2" bolt, 2.5" long. The stock stuff is probably M14 but you'd get a little more room for adjustment (nice to have with the solid stuff) with the 1/2"

[Adrian Thompson]

Pretty sure the side mounts have a slightly different offset to the center stud than the front mounts. I measured some critically when I was thinking of doing a run of more durable ones for motorsport use.

Yeah, that would matter with hard mounts. I've put front hydraulic mounts on the sides before but since they were flexible there didn't seem to be an issue putting them in. It would suck to make a run of hard mounts and end up that you couldn't get them in on the sides once a hard front mount was put in.

Thanks, I think I'll do the front mount first, I've got to get the car in the garage first before I can start, that will be next weekend.

Seats, I just have the seats, not the rails so I hope I can bolt the seats to the original rails. Again, I need to get it in the garage first so I can pull the whole interior out first.

[Adrian Thompson]

OK, I'm getting ready to order this I can get it in 70A or 88A durometer, I'm thinking 88A. Do people agree or should I got softer with the 70A? Ormayb the 88A for the front mount and the 70A for the side mounts?

Thanks

[Geoff]

You'd probably be happy with 70A.
This one:


uses silicone sheets that are fairly soft, I'd guess 50A.

[Adrian Thompson]

OK, sorry to keep asking dumb questions.

I was planning on the stiff mounts to protect the transmission. Will I actualy hurt it if I go too stiff?

[SwedeSport]

I think the worst thing that could happen is that motor vibration will transfer thru the chassis and into you causing driver fatigue. It could also cause some annoying harmonics in the car.

Plenty of hot rod/race cars use solid mounts, or even motor plates to fix the drivetrain to the chassis.

I was considering making my own barrel style mounts out of control arm bushings, and some steel. Just never got around to actually trying it.

[Crazyswede]

Solid front with stock sides works well...noticeable vibration increase but not enough to be harsh or fatiguing.

[Adrian Thompson]

Well it looks like I'm getting to the mounts just in time. I hope to get things apart on Sat. I had 10 mins tonight to get the car in the garage and have a look.

The positive battery cable is jamed hard betweet the mount and the clutch/flywheel/front of the engine cover thing, whatever it's called.





IF this had stayed like this much longer it would have worn through. Ugh.

IS this where the batter cable is suposed to be routed?

[DrewP]

No, the cable should route up over the clutch cover, there are little spring clips that it's supposed to pop into.

[Adrian Thompson]

Got the sump guard off which was fun, the two bolts on the rear edge that attached to the alloy crossmember were cap heads coming from above! got one fan out and find the battery isn’t restrained at all. Then I got the engine mount out.


Yup, that procreating procreator is procreating procreated!


Now to find some alloy plate to make a new one from and order the energy suspension bushing. They come in pairs so I may as well make another for one of the side mounts (yes I know they are different spacing) which of the side mounts takes the greatest beating. I assume the LHS under the intake which of course is the hardest to get too.