1985, T16, w/auto Project (fresh aquisition).

[Geoff]

You can check the hooter valve by applying vacuum to the vacuum tube (MightyVac or just sucking on it).
If it:
Holds vacuum = good
Doesn't hold vacuum = bad

You'll typically have boost with a bad one but the engine will stall between shifts (not sure what happens on an automatic).

[Flatfronter]

the engine has been stalling during tests, only 15.00 for a new aftermkt. Once all the heavy lifting is done, I need to go through the vacuum system, but haven't found any good diagrams to go by.

[Jordan]

There should be a Vacuum diagram on the front fender.

[Flatfronter]

It's been a while since I updated, but the project is going well and has matured to a car much closer to being roadworthy and is itching for a test drive. So with the donor harness spliced in, the tranny cooler retrofitted and holding, the front went back on. Since I'd never had the wheels off a brake inspection revealed good brakes all around... a solid suspension with recent balljoints and shocks. The only problem I found was a bad e-brake cable on passenger side. I did have one electrical gremlin to workout with the front side marker. Seems the clear cornering lamp was blinking and not the orange directional lamp. So using a matrix of 6 jumper wires, I was able to figure out the mix-up and solved the problem by relocating the wire leads at the connector. The car has been and is still running a bit rich. I'm not 100% sure about the coolant temp sensor, but I'm pretty sure the FPR is ok. I did notice a slight pressure leak at the rail near banjo so I'm heading out there ahead of any expected weather to solve that and do some tuning and testing. I'm still concerned about throttle closing and idle recovery.