Twin Scroll Turbo

[DrewP]

Pre-heat? I don't think I've ever had problems with silicon bronze cracking like that on stainless, but I don't recall if I've done something that thick to that thin before. You could probably heat the whole thing up and then hit the bead with the torch again to re-flow it and see if it still cracks when it cools all the way off?

[KoogiA17]

Dennis,

Slight digression, have you ever considered designing and manufacturing an intake manifold?

[squaab99t]

Pre-heat? I don't think I've ever had problems with silicon bronze cracking like that on stainless, but I don't recall if I've done something that thick to that thin before. You could probably heat the whole thing up and then hit the bead with the torch again to re-flow it and see if it still cracks when it cools all the way off?

I'll try the preheat. Maybe even a post heat of the tube as I thing that is cooling quicker than the flange and shrinking faster thus the cracking.
Either way I may just roll with it. As Craig mentioned its purpose is not water tight, but as a bushing strain relief.

[squaab99t]

Dennis,

Slight digression, have you ever considered designing and manufacturing an intake manifold?

Always on my mind. Need to get the header under my belt first and maybe start thinking seriously about the intake.
What is funny is it will be the same process all over again, but in a different material and throat valve.

[beckmannag]

Nice work there on 'Project Zoidberg'.

Maybe load the end of the tube with steel shot, then preheat?
Your test sections are short enough that they may not behave at all like the actual header tubes.

Have done a few torch braze repairs on broken/split/warped castings, and will often pack the weldment in sand to slow the cooling process.

Incidentally, what are you using for a helmet/filter, and how do you like it?

[KoogiA17]

Dennis,

Slight digression, have you ever considered designing and manufacturing an intake manifold?

Always on my mind. Need to get the header under my belt first and maybe start thinking seriously about the intake.
What is funny is it will be the same process all over again, but in a different material a throat valve.

Glad to hear it, no doubt you will have started it before I get anywhere on my header!

[squaab99t]

Nice work there on 'Project Zoidberg'.

Maybe load the end of the tube with steel shot, then preheat?
Your test sections are short enough that they may not behave at all like the actual header tubes.

Have done a few torch braze repairs on broken/split/warped castings, and will often pack the weldment in sand to slow the cooling process.

Incidentally, what are you using for a helmet/filter, and how do you like it?

That is a good idea to help retain the heat for a more even contraction. I was going to try a longer segment. Maybe in staged conditions and record the results?

I have been using an Optrel auto darkening. An upgrade from my older speedglas 3M.
The Optrel is very comfortable and has a grind mode to
stay on shade 5. Kinda nice when grinding the tungsten as it offers face pro and I have cheater magnifying lens to inspect the tip.

[squaab99t]

Moving back to the intake to the compressor. Two sides and the ends located. Next step is to fill in the sides with material and weld it shut.

Might have to trim the fan motor's housing a bit.

[squaab99t]

With the ends welded I need templates for the sides. The blue tape stitching works pretty good. With the 1" tape and 25-50% overlap makes it very conforming to the complex shape to establish the periphery.

[squaab99t]

I cut out the blue tape mat to create templates for the aluminum sheet.
Rough cut them out, rough shaped and then began fine tuning the shape and trim.

On to the other face.

Done.

[Mezzanine]

I see that you've got it fitting directly to the turbo. How are you planning to seal the connection to the turbo? I realize it doesn't have to be a perfect seal, but limiting the unfiltered air pre-turbo is always good.

[Luke]

sort of reminds me of the intake on my CJ2A jeep,



the flanged rubber piece goes under and then a hose clamp secures.

[squaab99t]

I see that you've got it fitting directly to the turbo. How are you planning to seal the connection to the turbo? I realize it doesn't have to be a perfect seal, but limiting the unfiltered air pre-turbo is always good.

Getting grit in the turbo intake. No good will become of it.
So the previous setup I had a fiber reinforce silicone sheet between the turbo and the ducting. It was a PITA to line up prior to clamping. This time I might use a self vulcanizing silicone tape around the turbo, or RTV prior to assembly. The other option will be a sleeve/condom on the outside and worm clamp the whole works.

[squaab99t]

A bit more work. Have not had a lot of free time. Work seems to be all consuming.
I rewired my ignition coils to do wasted spark since my cam sensor is no longer in play. I'll do a cam sensor this winter.

It is always fun hacking into your currently functioning wire bundle. This is where good documentation pays off. Back check what you have and redesigning where you want to go.

Some little things, but just as important. Plugged the side cover dip stick. I originally tried to mod the existing dip stick making it super stubby. Did not turn out to my liking, so I went old school and made a plug like the original 99s had. I could have put on a 99 plate, but that would meant I would have drain the box of the shock proof. IMO one of the stinkest jobs and about 60$ in gear oil wasted. Thus the plug/cap.

Fit checked the air intake. Seems to fit reasonably well.

Couple last items to finish are brazing the flanges and a plug for the dist hole in the head. Put it all back together. After that it might time to fire it up?

[squaab99t]

I thought I had a dist plug for the cam cover, but for the life of me I can't find it, or I sold it with some T5 stuff?
Took an old dist, removed the guts and plugged the hole. New O ring and good to go.
1/4" plate made round with a slight tapper. Press fit with some bearing race Loc-Tite and sanded flush.

I promised no more tooling, but I can't help myself. With the primaries all welded the things are gangly on the bench. Very difficult to get in the right position to tig braze the flanges.
Built a V block that attaches to the Park stand. Spin it, raise it, and most importantly hold it. It also gets it suspended off the bench, so I can preheat with one hand and not catch the bench on fire.

Coupon in for a fit check.