That's an interesting concept re pre and post turbo readings - which ones right? Prob most accurate post turbo and then use the individual afr's to trim each bank to be same

Did see a dyno run altering afr and was amazing how much you can go lean or rich and makes very little difference to power - unless knocks of course

Oh I tuned a turbo on a dyno hub and borrowed a plex unit omg it's amazing - knock is so easy to hear over set cans

If you can find a unit to borrow I'd defo recommend it!!

http://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor/

Thanks
Rob

Yes those knock detection sound amplifying filtering systems are quite good today. I have a Phormula knock headphone setup. That in conjunction with the new ecu detection maps should be golden.

Over 30k views. Not quite Super Hero status, but close considering the audience.

Semi annual update on the header project.
I was never super happy with my pressure sensor plumbing routing for my Wideband lambda per cylinder. Needed to get both sides of the secondaries to T together to obtain an average to feed the single pressure sensor. Also need to account for engine and thermal movement. Originally had some large radius arcs to address the task, but they kinda looked like ass and not really purposeful.
I wanted to coil the tubing in a tight radius to create a "spring" to take care of the movement. The coil also added the length required to let the exhaust gasses' temperature drop per AEM's recommendations to keep from cooking the sensor and PTFE in the flex line. I bought an OTC hand tubing bender thinking I can use that to coil. Got 180*, but that was it. It also did not create the pitch angle to turn it into a helix. Well with the 180* as a template time to freehand this baby an create the coil I was looking for. I used a Pony pipe clamp as my mandrel. Held the pipe horizontally in my bench vice and full commitment got it done. I did use the tubing bender to add the final bends in the "straight" sections to dial in the T fitting.

I like the additional mad scientist vibe the coiled tubing gives.

I had to do something like that at work and used some sleeves made out of coiled wire that help support the tube to prevent kinking. They worked pretty well. McMaster # 2420A17

It's almost like aircraft porn...

Aircraft porn? Wonder were the inspiration of that came from? This past September marked my 30 years with the B. Holy smokes that flew by.
I’ve seen those spring bending backers before. Way better than nothing. I think I’m going to try modifying the tube bending tool and try again for fun.

14 months since the last post. Not much to report, which is good as far as issues. Went for a pizza run to our favorite place in Seattle last Friday. Only 15 mins each way, but what a hoot to drive. So much power on tap, and such a driver's car. A few years out but, most likely to be buried in my c900.

Nice when things work well and cars can be enjoyed. Any more work on the intake manifold project? Im looking at doing something similar.

Not much work on the intake. Did some cleaning up and organizing, so all the parts are in one box. I’ve been bouncing around some ideas from a company in Germany and their take on the plenum design and fab. #p_motorsports on instagram. Feeding the center will greatly help out distribution across the runners. Revise the dip stick/ filler to make room for the dbw throttle body. I have a new cam cover with a fill cap welded in.

Looking forward to seeing your version of that!

Dennis, how has your catch can been working? I need to get my PCV hooked up correctly for the HY35.

Works well. No oily vapor mess in the engine compartment and I don't see much oil in the intake run off the compressor.

New Year update. Over 51,000 views of this project thread. Humbling considering the niche audience.
Updated the exhaust pressure sensor system. Took the idea from High Performance Academy to add a muffler/damper to reduce spikes and valleys of the pressure readings. In the process of resigning the plumbing I inspected the existing components. Anything made from steel and in contact with the exhaust gases had a coating of iron-oxide. My concern is with the rust breaking loose, plugging the line and/or fouling the sensor. This is a tough environment, caustic by-products, condensation, and the gas is not flow thru, but deadheaded by the sensor. All the new parts in contact with the exhaust gases are either 304 or 321 corrosion resistant steel.
Updated the system by removing the steel T fitting with the damper and integrating the T fitting within. To address the additional mass of the damper, I added a clevis to attach a tie-rod member, picking up the turbo support truss.

The installation consisted of bending the existing coil lines and shortening one line to accommodating the damper's added length over the old T fitting. Once it found it happy place, I sized the length for the tie rod and figured an attachment method. Pressed in a Nylon foot and drilled for safety wire.