I had heard about that 900 with the chopped rad and 944 IC.

I did some cutting and measuring today. The 78 99 turbo air dam sits very close to the body.

Unfortunately the 944 unit is a perfect fit in every dimension except depth. I think the ideal intercooler for my application would be 18-15" long x 5" tall x 3.5" deep.

Cutting a core's depth seems like a huge headache. It would require re-welding each horizontal plate back in. Cutting down the length or height only requires four welds.

I always liked the idea of putting the intercooler flat and above the turbo. Come straight out of the turbo with one bend into the intercooler. Come straight out of the intercooler and follow a large radius bend into the intake. Minimum restriction. Cut a hole in the hood and either duct cool air from the front of the car up under and through intercooler...use a reverse hood scoop to protect...or a hood scoop like the suburbs and duct thedischarge away from the engine. Engine bay side could be insulated and ddeducted so that heat would not soak into it.

I built a mock up of an 18" long x 5.5" tall x 3.5" deep intercooler. Hopefully I can find a core with similar dimensions, if not, one that is taller which can easily be cut down. The end caps will have to be customized anyway.

I'd just stick with the cardboard. :)

That is an odd size. CLosest I've found so far is a Mini Cooper, but that has oval shaped inlets and outlets that could be hard to find. 17"x6"x3"

Or just run water injection and keep the engine bay a little tidier

Has anyone seen a comparison of cardboard to aluminum heat transfer?

It is an odd size, especially for aftermarket. Interestingly, I keep finding OEM sizes that are very close. The trouble is its hard to find the dimensions of OE or even OE upgrade intercoolers. The sites just list the application type, or how much bigger in volume or % it is from stock.

I was looking at the Do88 site last night and the Volvo S40 etc unit is super close to being right. It's only an inch too tall (could be cut down) and wider then I had planned (still may work).

I looked at the Bell intercooler core sizes. They have one that is a perfect fit. It's like $250 but would require end caps. Anyone know of a Bell distributor?


I had thought about just running water injection but I want passive cooling. Also I don't want to have to rely solely on a system that has several failure points. The IC just has one; leaks. Same reason I don't like Air-water. Realizing that my "hull" was already f'd made the section easier.

Chouan wrote:Also I don't want to have to rely solely on a system that has several failure points. The IC just has one; leaks. Same reason I don't like Air-water.

A leaky air-water intercooler = intercooling + water injection!

I know it's just my opinion but I really think one of those in-line chargecoolers that I posted a picture of earlier in the thread would fit nicely in place of the "Turbo" intake pipe. Then you'd just have a small pump and a small radiator for it that you could probably mount down in your "hull" space. You'd have a lot less intake ducting and if you bottom the car out and bash something it will be the radiator for the chargecooler so you could still drive it. Also, there doesn't seem to be much room for air flow behind your cardboard intercooler, a smaller radiator would probably fit better. Again, just my opinion.

Also, I see a rotisserie. There is some serious stuff going on here!

??? Have you given us a rundown on what this car is to be ? - or was before ?
This is Bob in Oregon - '76 99 EMS, silver w/ track modifications.
Do you need rust free sections that it would be worth shipping cross country ?
I'm currently parting out a '77 5-door 99 that seems to be rust free.

Chouan wrote:18" long x 5.5" tall x 3.5" deep intercooler.

I think I still have my stock Viggen intercooler laying around somewhere, from a quick google search here are the specs:

Sizing Information:
Core Size: 22X6.5X2
Inlet: 2.25
Outlet: 2.25
Overall Length: 33
Height, max, at Outlet: 8
Aluminum Core. Plastic Tanks.

Not exactly what you're looking for, and I don't know what sort of max HP you're looking for, but you could have it for essentially shipping if you are interested.

PM'd :)

Geoff wrote:

Chouan wrote:Also I don't want to have to rely solely on a system that has several failure points. The IC just has one; leaks. Same reason I don't like Air-water.

A leaky air-water intercooler = intercooling + water injection!

I know it's just my opinion but I really think one of those in-line chargecoolers that I posted a picture of earlier in the thread would fit nicely in place of the "Turbo" intake pipe. Then you'd just have a small pump and a small radiator for it that you could probably mount down in your "hull" space. You'd have a lot less intake ducting and if you bottom the car out and bash something it will be the radiator for the chargecooler so you could still drive it. Also, there doesn't seem to be much room for air flow behind your cardboard intercooler, a smaller radiator would probably fit better. Again, just my opinion.

Also, I see a rotisserie. There is some serious stuff going on here!

Those inline charge coolers usualy have horrible flow characteristics. Its like breathing through a pile stacked straws.

This message comes to you from Hawaii. Suckers

You can all point and laugh when I return to the frozen north.

hutch wrote:
Not exactly what you're looking for, and I don't know what sort of max HP you're looking for, but you could have it for essentially shipping if you are interested.

Thanks for the offer. The 6.5" height is a deal breaker though. Close but no cigar. The search continues!

vintagesaabs wrote:??? Have you given us a rundown on what this car is to be ? - or was before ?
This is Bob in Oregon - '76 99 EMS, silver w/ track modifications.
Do you need rust free sections that it would be worth shipping cross country ?
I'm currently parting out a '77 5-door 99 that seems to be rust free.

I'm going to start a build thread. It's a 78, 3dr, was a turbo. I got it as a rolling shell. Most of the rust is in flat places on the floor so I'm probably good with sheet metal. I'll have a better idea next week when I get the undercoat off.