Strongest Gearbox Possible

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DrewP
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Re: Strongest Gearbox Possible

Postby DrewP » Sat Jan 24, 2009 3:15 pm

Crazyswede wrote: Strengthened Primary chains....not sure about these....as I said in an earlier response the Saab rally boxes ran 4 chains and both ends of the shafts were supported in a bearing....vs the 2 or 3 chains found in the 4 speeds and 5 speeds where the gear is only supported on one side.

Neil Jones wrote:Do you know of any picture or diagram that shows how this works? I'm having a difficult time visualizing this.



Neil,

In the older trans thread on this site someone posted up photos of a bunch of Jørgen's stuff, the 4-chain primaries have drive sprockets with 4 rows of teeth, it's not just an additional sprocket attached to the 3-chain hubs, though that might be the easiest thing for you to fab up.

You will also notice the stock primary drive sprockets have the 3 sprockets indexed from each other, so that the chains are loaded sequentially (most load in the trailing most tension link, and most load in the trailing most tooth, Machinery's has a section about it, but I'm sure you are familiar).

What that means is if you wanted to maintain the chain life if the stock pieces, if you were going to make 4-chain sprockets it'd be almost impossible to machine them so that the drive cogs are indexed to each other, the stock pieces are castings with the faces of the cogs machined true, and the splines formed in.

Best,
Drew
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Re: Strongest Gearbox Possible

Postby Neil Jones » Sat Jan 24, 2009 9:12 pm

DrewP wrote:I'm glad that you are persuing this.
Drew


I can use all the help I can get. What I learn I'll share.

DrewP wrote:However, I highly suggest you pick up the cheapest extra C900 box you can get your hands on, broken or not (unless you have one already) and tear it down (unless you have done that already).
Drew


I haven't. I think this is excellent advise and I intend to follow it very shortly. I just got my hands on the Saab 900 Service Manual for the 4:1 Manual Transmission M 1979-88. Do you recommend anything else? I've had the Bentley Manual for years.

DrewP wrote:In taking mine apart, I made several observations that contradict the accepted failure modes, particularly about the case flexing and allowing the shafts to separate from each other. The case actually looks extremely rigid, and the input and output shafts are supported through pretty helfty buklheads at the front where the input, or primary housing bolts to the main case, and at the rear where the pinion bearing housing bolts to. The only way that 'case flex' could allow the shafts to actually spread apart, is if the bearing bores for the two shafts pushed hard enough apart to shift the shaft centers away from each other. On the box I took apart, an '82 5-speed turbo box, the front bulkhead was about 0.5" thick and ribbed, it looked pretty hefty compared to what I was expecting to see after hearing for years about how compliant the cases are. The rear bulkhead is beefy." The input shaft has gears 1-4 cast right onto the shaft, and is hollow in the center and rides on a stationary layshaft that is retained in a bore in the front buklhead of the primary housing, and rides in a bearing at the back bulkhead where the pinion bearing housing bolts. At the front it rides on the layshaft with a small collared needle cartridge between them. As the needle bearing wears, and as the radial surface of the layshaft where the radial loading is centered wears is allows the layshaft to shift away from the output shaft, which is what widens the gear spacing.
Drew


Interesting observations and conclusion. Is the layshaft the same thing as the "cluster gear" shown in this picture?

http://www.twinsaabs.com/900_repair/tra ... p?nsteps=7

DrewP wrote:I have a photo gallery of my teardown here, so you can see the internals. This box was pretty worn when I took it apart, but it worked and didn't make any terrible noises, and look how much wear there is on the 4th gear end of the lay cluster bearing support area, on the layshaft and the needle bearing.
Drew


I downloaded all your pictures so I can refer to them. Thanks for posting them!

DrewP wrote:The diff support bearing end could benefit from stiffening, this the heftier rear diff cover, to stabilize the left and right flanges, there have been people who make an external girdle that integrates with the diff cover and wraps around the sides and bottom with bolt flanges to go onto the inner driver bearing housing bolts, the guy in Iceland with the photo gallery of his hasn't been around in a while though, and his photos are down. Maybe someone saved them?
Drew


I'd really like to see this!

DrewP wrote:Sorry that was so long, I think I got most of my thoughts, will be following where this goes.
Drew


This is the kind of helpful and intelligent feedback I'm looking for. I'll carefully read over whatever you post and length isn't a factor.

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Re: Strongest Gearbox Possible

Postby Neil Jones » Sat Jan 24, 2009 9:38 pm

DrewP wrote:
In the older trans thread on this site someone posted up photos of a bunch of Jørgen's stuff, the 4-chain primaries have drive sprockets with 4 rows of teeth, it's not just an additional sprocket attached to the 3-chain hubs, though that might be the easiest thing for you to fab up.

Drew


I'll go look for that thread. Thanks for the heads up.

DrewP wrote:
You will also notice the stock primary drive sprockets have the 3 sprockets indexed from each other, so that the chains are loaded sequentially (most load in the trailing most tension link, and most load in the trailing most tooth, Machinery's has a section about it, but I'm sure you are familiar).

Drew


I'm have a Machinery's Handbook as do most machinists. I know very little about gears. Machining gears seems to now be a very specialized form of machining. I've run into some manual machinists who have done some gear hobbing in their past. None of the CNC mill guys that I'm surrounded with know anything about making gears. I've got a lot to learn. Seems to be some decent stuff on gear hobbing on YouTube that I intend to check out very shortly .

DrewP wrote:What that means is if you wanted to maintain the chain life if the stock pieces, if you were going to make 4-chain sprockets it'd be almost impossible to machine them so that the drive cogs are indexed to each other, the stock pieces are castings with the faces of the cogs machined true, and the splines formed in.
Drew


You lost me here.

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Re: Strongest Gearbox Possible

Postby Neil Jones » Sat Jan 24, 2009 10:26 pm

DrewP wrote:In the older trans thread on this site someone posted up photos of a bunch of Jørgen's stuff, the 4-chain primaries have drive sprockets with 4 rows of teeth, it's not just an additional sprocket attached to the 3-chain hubs, though that might be the easiest thing for you to fab up.
Drew


The old thread had a link to his website. It's all in Swedish. I'll send an e-mail and see how that goes. Thanks!

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Re: Strongest Gearbox Possible

Postby DrewP » Sat Jan 24, 2009 11:06 pm

Neil Jones wrote:
DrewP wrote:However, I highly suggest you pick up the cheapest extra C900 box you can get your hands on, broken or not (unless you have one already) and tear it down (unless you have done that already).
Drew


I haven't. I think this is excellent advise and I intend to follow it very shortly. I just got my hands on the Saab 900 Service Manual for the 4:1 Manual Transmission M 1979-88. Do you recommend anything else? I've had the Bentley Manual for years.



If you can find one, the Hanes manual for the C900's has an excellent section on completely tearing down the transmission. It's about all that manual is good for though, I use my Bentley for about everything else, and just picked up a set of factory binders as well, those do a great job too.

Neil Jones wrote:
DrewP wrote:In taking mine apart, I made several observations that contradict the accepted failure modes, particularly about the case flexing and allowing the shafts to separate from each other. ....
Drew


Interesting observations and conclusion. Is the layshaft the same thing as the "cluster gear" shown in this picture?


The cluster gear (shaft and the four lower driven gears) is cast hollow through the middle. The layshaft passes through the center of the cluster shaft, and is fixed stationary to the case. The I.D. needle roller in the 4th gear end of the cluster gear rides on the O.D. of the layshaft (layshafts are always stationary). The layshaft is what takes the radial load at the 4th gear end (towards front of car) of the input cluster (or cluster gear) trying to force it's way away from the output gears.


Glad you like the photos!


I was actually really really impressed with the quality of the castings in particular in the box when I tore mine down, I'm sure you will be too. The surface finish on all the mating surfaces and on the bearing bores is amazing, the bearings all look like good quality, and the castings and machine work on the gear clusters looks very good as well. I'll be interested to see what your thoughts are when you get your hands on one, I was expecting things to look disproportionately undersized from what I'd had drilled into my head about how shitty these transmissions are supposed to be. I think that it's just age and neglect playing a large part - these things are old! There are lots of examples of people running one in a high output car for years and having no trouble, like the 5-speed in my high HP 900, and Luke's rally trans, Dave Kennedy has good luck with his, etc.



Neil Jones wrote:Machining gears seems to now be a very specialized form of machining.


Exactly. The problem with getting any produced is getting the hobbing tooling made is going to be so prohibitively expensive unless you're gonna make like a thousand. Hobbing cold forms the tooth surfaces though, and burnishes the wear surfaces so little heat treat or surface carburizing or whatever is required. Makes for excellent rolling contact surfaces. If you were gonna machine them, you leave nice ragged (micro scale) surface finish on the gear surfaces, and requires much more careful design of the heat treat process to get enough hardness into the surfaces of the teeth without making them too brittle, not a small feat.

Gear designers are pretty few and far between. We have a tribology prof at school who I think has a fair bit of experience on it, she teaches a course almost entirely about bearing selection, gear and rolling element geometry and design considerations, and flexible coupling joint design.

The important parameters you should start reading on are pressure angle, effects of helix angle, involute profile geometry and pitch circles and diametral pitch, which determine the thickness and height of the teeth (which varies with the # of teeth for a given diameter gear and with pressure angle).


Neil Jones wrote:
DrewP wrote:What that means is if you wanted to maintain the chain life if the stock pieces, if you were going to make 4-chain sprockets it'd be almost impossible to machine them so that the drive cogs are indexed to each other, the stock pieces are castings with the faces of the cogs machined true, and the splines formed in.
Drew


You lost me here.



Sorry, I don't have a picture of one of the chain sprockets. It'd make a lot more sense.

Think of the sprockets like the cassette (the stack of drive sprockets) on the rear wheel of a bike, except instead of different size sprockets, they're all the same size. So you've got your three sprockets, each with a chain, each being driven by another 3 sprockets at the pedal cranks. If the sprockets are all aligned, I.E. you look along them and all the teeth are lined up.

Turning in a given direction, driving chains put most of the load into the first few teeth on the tension side of the sprocket, I.E. the trailing end of the chain wrap around the sprocket. The teeth on the slack side of the chain see almost no load, the teeth in the middle see a little bit, and the teeth right as the chain starts to wrap see a lot. If you think about the slack side of the chain, the first few rollers have to see NO load, or else the chain wouldn't be able to slack.

Now driven chains are the opposite, the most load is in the first few teeth back from the tension side of the chain, less load in the middle, no load on the slack side. For the sake of argument, say only the 5 or 6 teeth on the sprocket closest to the tension side of the chain see any load.

As the chain goes around, the rollers engage the teeth on the sprockets over a set angle of rotation of the sprockets, so as you turn the sprockets, links are being loaded and unloaded as the pass onto the sprockets. The tensioned segment of chain will vary in strength depending on whether the end most rollers are touching a sprocket or off the tooth of the sprocket.

If all the sprockets are lined up, the same segments of chain are stressed as you load the chain, and if you dump the clutch right at the exact moment when all four chains are at their weakest length, all the chains are more likely to stretch a little bit.

On the sprockets in the trans if you look along the edge of the sprocket (like looking through the axle of the bike wheel) the teeth don't line up with each other as you go from the front cog, to the middle one, to the back one, is what I meant by they're indexed to each other. Each ring of teeth is offset from the ones on either side by a few degrees, so that as it rotates different combinations of links in each chain are tensioned at different times, which is a fatigue strength consideration, and I think is also a yield strength consideration. It should also be quieter and smoother since 3 rollers on 3 different chains don't all engage simultaneously, it loads each chain to peak successively.

The reason I said making one would be hard, is you can't just do a circular profile if the blank face up on the mill, turn down the recesses between the teeth, and machine to tooth profiles into the side of the sprocket with an end mill, since the teeth don't line up looking paralell to the rotating axis.




Damn. I'm sure none of that makes sense. Maybe I'll have my mom go find the gear in the garage and take a photo for me, it will make much more sense with a picture.

That twinsaabs how-to had some good pictures to go with the explanations.

More tomorrow, I completely forgot the response to where I think the compliance in the 2nd and 3rd gear part of the shafts is coming from.

Best,
Drew
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Re: Strongest Gearbox Possible

Postby DrewP » Sat Jan 24, 2009 11:11 pm

This thread on the FSAE forum is about loading conditions on sprockets.

Sprocket loading conditions

Most of the Formula SAE cars are powered by motorcycle or ATV engines, and chain drive a diff or solid rear axle using the stock bike transmissions and output sprockets. The driven sprockets on the diff housings are usually aluminum, ours are 7075 T6, with a 520 motorcycle chain.

Best,
Drew
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Re: Strongest Gearbox Possible

Postby Crazyswede » Sat Jan 24, 2009 11:41 pm

I am the 73%

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Re: Strongest Gearbox Possible

Postby Luke » Sun Jan 25, 2009 3:41 am

DrewP wrote:
Neil Jones wrote:
DrewP wrote:What that means is if you wanted to maintain the chain life if the stock pieces, if you were going to make 4-chain sprockets it'd be almost impossible to machine them so that the drive cogs are indexed to each other, the stock pieces are castings with the faces of the cogs machined true, and the splines formed in.
Drew


You lost me here.



Sorry, I don't have a picture of one of the chain sprockets. It'd make a lot more sense.

Think of the sprockets like the cassette (the stack of drive sprockets) on the rear wheel of a bike, except instead of different size sprockets, they're all the same size. So you've got your three sprockets, each with a chain, each being driven by another 3 sprockets at the pedal cranks. If the sprockets are all aligned, I.E. you look along them and all the teeth are lined up.

Turning in a given direction, driving chains put most of the load into the first few teeth on the tension side of the sprocket, I.E. the trailing end of the chain wrap around the sprocket. The teeth on the slack side of the chain see almost no load, the teeth in the middle see a little bit, and the teeth right as the chain starts to wrap see a lot. If you think about the slack side of the chain, the first few rollers have to see NO load, or else the chain wouldn't be able to slack.

Now driven chains are the opposite, the most load is in the first few teeth back from the tension side of the chain, less load in the middle, no load on the slack side. For the sake of argument, say only the 5 or 6 teeth on the sprocket closest to the tension side of the chain see any load.

As the chain goes around, the rollers engage the teeth on the sprockets over a set angle of rotation of the sprockets, so as you turn the sprockets, links are being loaded and unloaded as the pass onto the sprockets. The tensioned segment of chain will vary in strength depending on whether the end most rollers are touching a sprocket or off the tooth of the sprocket.

If all the sprockets are lined up, the same segments of chain are stressed as you load the chain, and if you dump the clutch right at the exact moment when all four chains are at their weakest length, all the chains are more likely to stretch a little bit.

On the sprockets in the trans if you look along the edge of the sprocket (like looking through the axle of the bike wheel) the teeth don't line up with each other as you go from the front cog, to the middle one, to the back one, is what I meant by they're indexed to each other. Each ring of teeth is offset from the ones on either side by a few degrees, so that as it rotates different combinations of links in each chain are tensioned at different times, which is a fatigue strength consideration, and I think is also a yield strength consideration. It should also be quieter and smoother since 3 rollers on 3 different chains don't all engage simultaneously, it loads each chain to peak successively.




FWIW, SAAB sport and rally 4 chain primaries did not use the staggered tooth design like the production gearboxes did. Presumably for ease of machining and because with the entire extra chain the strength was so much greater that the little bit of advantage the staggered teeth had was no longer neccessary.

Image

Image

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Re: Strongest Gearbox Possible

Postby paulh » Sun Jan 25, 2009 11:45 am

Also, don't the 4 chain primaries have an extra bearing for the front of the top cog? I imagine this is the most important feature, as Delorean recently had the top cog on his trans break off the mounting nub in the trans. Seems like that extra bearing would take care of that form of failure.

One of the other oddball failures that seems pretty common is with the 91+ boxes, the synchro spring on 4th gear seems to occasionally just let loose, getting smashed in the gear cluster, causing a catastrophic gear failure.

Image

Image

Image

http://s28.photobucket.com/albums/c206/ ... nek/trans/

it seems that using a good 89-90 trans, keeping clean fluid in it, and driving it mildly sanely can get you a good bit of mileage, but then theres still the possibility of some oddball failure like the top cog breaking off, or the rear diff case splitting forward of the inner drivers (seemingly pretty common). Presumably a diff cover and/or girdle setup would help this.

Paul

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Re: Strongest Gearbox Possible

Postby DrewP » Sun Jan 25, 2009 2:38 pm

Ok, warning, go grab a cup or tea or something to prepare for this one. It's longer than my other one.





Luke wrote:FWIW, SAAB sport and rally 4 chain primaries did not use the staggered tooth design like the production gearboxes did. Presumably for ease of machining and because with the entire extra chain the strength was so much greater that the little bit of advantage the staggered teeth had was no longer neccessary.



Thanks Luke, I always get myself in trouble overthinking sometimes, the curse of the engineering degree. These wouldn't actually be too bad to make, the heat treat to keep the wear surfaces would probably be the hardest part, but some cut from 8620 round and a moderate through hardening would probably be fine, especially on dirt / gravel stages, tarmac might be a little bit much shock loading, it's hard to say. Neil, I don't know if you guys can broach the female spline drive or not, but I definitely don't have the tools to do that here, I single point cut some male splines into a 4340 stub, but it took forever.



Crazyswede wrote:http://www.performance96.co.uk/Project_99/99Gearbox.html



That is fantastic, I hadn't seen it yet, thanks.



paulh wrote:Also, don't the 4 chain primaries have an extra bearing for the front of the top cog? I imagine this is the most important feature, as Delorean recently had the top cog on his trans break off the mounting nub in the trans. Seems like that extra bearing would take care of that form of failure.


I'd agree with that, it'd be a good preventative bit at least, and one could make the new outer bearing retainer integral to the little access cover to get the clutch shaft out pretty easily, especially if you made your own sprockets and could size the outer diameter.




paulh wrote:One of the other oddball failures that seems pretty common is with the 91+ boxes, the synchro spring on 4th gear seems to occasionally just let loose, getting smashed in the gear cluster, causing a catastrophic gear failure.




Paul, I remember seeing photos of this last year or whatever, but isn't the syncro spring still in the 4th gear syncro in this photo? Did it come out of another gear?


Image







I didn't even get to my coup de gras about the shafts flexing before.

So my theory goes that (in the case of the radial loads pushing the gears apart at least) the cases are pretty rigid, I mean, how can the mounting bores actually separate that much into the surrounding material, the bulkhead arangement like that is common, and works well for many many situations.

I believe that the flexing that can kill 2nd and 3rd is actually the splined output shaft flexing when loaded. I think it's the splined shaft and not the driving cluster because of how much smaller diameter the splined shaft is than the cluster. The cluster shaft is easily 20%-25% larger diameter, and flexural (bending) rigidity of shafts loaded like this goes up as the 4th power of diameter:

Bending moment 'M' = E*I, with E = modulus of material, I the area moment of inertia,

Image

r = radius
D = diameter

So a 10% increase in diameter, from nominal size = 1, to size 1.1 is 1.1^4 = 1.46 times the bending stiffness of the original size 1 shaft, or a 46% increase in stiffness. That's why small increases in anti-roll bar diameter can have a drastic change in handling, torsional stiffness also goes up as the 4th power of diameter.

The cluster gear is (flexurally at least) much much more rigid than the output shaft, which has the driven gears all splined onto it (the splines are stress risers and weaken the shaft a little bit further).

The bad news is I still don't have a good way around this problem, what needs to happen is either to get a support on the upper-driver's-side of the output shaft to take the radial loading, like with a gusset into the upper corner of the case with a forked bearing support or something, or a 'dogbone' bearing carrier like some of the Honday transaxles can take, to tie the two shafts together from the center, but you'd have to re-space the output stack, and there's no way to get a bearing onto the cluster since the gears are cast on.



The last observation about gears - I don't know where the misconception on the internet came from that straight cut gears are stronger than helical gears, but I can remember consistently seeing this for as long as I can remember reading about upgrading the transmission.

Helical cut gears are stronger for a given width and diameter, i.e. it takes more torque to rupture the teeth. Helical gears require larger and different bearings for the same size gears though because of the additional radial and thrust loading, so it's a packaging compromise

Straight cut gears don't have wider teeth. The tooth geometry can be made almost identical between the two cut types for equivalent sized gears, and the teeth can be just as wide, but the helical gear's advantage is two fold from a strength perspective:

1) The contact ratio, the number of teeth that are sumultaneously rolling across each other and transmissing load, can only be between 1.0 and 2.0 for straight cut gears. No more than two teeth can ever being transmitting load at once.

Helical cut gears can have contact ratios greater than 2, depending on the width of the gear face, so the load can be spread across more of the gear face.

Contact ratio goes up as the width of the gear face increases, and as the helical angle increases (helical teeth wind more). The extreme is the worm gear, which has a very high helical angle, and can have many many teeth engaged sumultaneously depending on the geometry of the rack or gear being driven.

Image
Image




How Gears Work, and Involute Profiles

Before part 2), check the bottom explanation of this link, about 'Involute Profiles.'

Notice that the faces of the teeth have a curved shape profile, and are not flat faces.

Involute profiles

Involute gears




The curved involute faces appriximate a rolling motion as the gears turn and they roll across each other. The editor of the Wiki article incorrectly states that involute gear faces slide along each other. The primary failure mode of involute profile gear teeth (other than rupture from overload) is pitting from micro-scale adhesion, not a sliding failure. The two modes look drastically different, and in the photo of the tooth faces in my gallery you can clearly see the pitting failure, not a sliding contact surface failure, which would have 'rub' lines sliding off the faces of the teeth.


Image





2) With straight cut gears the contact interface is called a line load, as the teeth mesh the contact point is a line along the width of the gear.

Image

(technically, since the surfaces of the teeth deform as load is applied to load application is actually distributed in a rectangular profile, the harder the teeth push, the wider the rectangle).

If the shaft is short, stiff, and well supported from both ends, this is fine. If you're talking about the gears in a car trans mounted on a shaft, as the center of the shafts push apart from the radial load of the gears, the gear centerlines are no longer parallel.

The gears misalign, and the contact point goes from a nice line load to an uneven point load!!!


Image



The misalignment and uneven tooth loading is worse for wider gears than narrower ones since smaller centerline misalignment angles can pull the ends of the teeth away from each other.


But with a helical gear, as above, the tooth contacts are closer to distributed point loads already, with the contact starting as the root of one tooth meets the crest of the mating tooth on the other gear, rolls up so both flanks are contacting, and then the tooth disengages as the crest of the first tooth rolls to the root of the mating tooth.

This happens simultaneously and continuously across multiple teeth as the gears mesh, depending on the helical angle.



So, WHY STRAIGHT CUT GEARS??


They can be cut. Helical gears are almost impossible to cut, and are almost exclusively hobbed, where a forming tool is forced into a smooth round blank and the teeth are literally pressed into the gear as the hobbing tool is rolled around the edge of the gear blank.

For low volume production like racing, getting the hobbing tools made is extremely costly (but makes better gears, residual compressive stress in the tooth surfaces strengthens the wear surfaces). Straight cut gears can be machined with a specially ground cutter which cuts the faces of two adjacent teeth by cutting out the root of the tooth. This way you can fairly inexpensively make many many different size gears to mate to a set of common splined shafts so you can change individual gear ratios, like for the Hewland series transmissions for open wheel cars, for example. Getting a hobbing tool made for each and every gear size and tooth count would cost literally millions.



The drawbacks of helical gears are the cost and complexity to manufacture, and the fact that the helical angle puts a thrust load in the direction of the shaft onto the gear, which both bends the shaft, and must be supported with a thrust bearing surface at one or both ends of the shaft to keep the shaft from sliding through it's bearings, thus part of the reason for the twin opposing tapered rollers in the pinion bearing housing, and the deep groove ball bearing at the front end of the case on the output shaft, and the single tapered roller at the back of the cluster gear.







I love engineering. But talk too much.

I swear I actually have a life too.

Best,
Drew
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Re: Strongest Gearbox Possible

Postby Neil Jones » Mon Jan 26, 2009 10:25 pm

If Drew is correct and it's the splined output shaft flexing that often causes gears to break in the 900 gearbox, wouldn't spur gears/straight cut gears/dog cut gears (how did we end up with so many names for spur gears?) tolerate the misalignment much better than helical gears? In addition wouldn't spur gears be easier on the bearings and the case because they generate less trust load than helical gears?

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Re: Strongest Gearbox Possible

Postby DrewP » Mon Jan 26, 2009 11:28 pm

Neil,

The helical cut gears are actually better handling the misalignment from the shafts not remaining perfectly parallel. With straight cut gears any misalignment will shift the loading unevenly across the face of the loaded tooth, like the little tilted box drawing above. It puts a lot more load all the way over to one side of the tooth, and little or no load at the other side.

With a helical gear tooth the loading is already misaligned diagonally upwards across the face of the tooth, like on the drawing of the load line above. I think misaligned shafts have less of a negative effect on the load distribution of the tooth, but as you said, require a different bearing setup to take the thrust load in the direction of the shaft. Keeping the two gears meshing completely is also a necessity, obviously.

I had never even heard the term spur gear until I took the machine elements course that covered gears and bearings, I had always heard the colloquial 'straight-cut,' which is what I have heard all racers call it. I think it's just an academic / manufacturing thing. I still call them straight-cut gears.

Best,
Drew
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Re: Strongest Gearbox Possible

Postby happyandy » Mon Jan 26, 2009 11:49 pm

I am not an engineer, and I have a headache from reading this thread in one sitting. I think that I understand most of it though!
I have a question about the straight cut gears that are being referenced here. By straight cut gears are you meaning only gears that have teeth parallel to the shaft that they ride on, or does this include what I have heard referred to as slash cut gears also?
What I am calling a slash cut gear is a gear that has teeth at an angle to the shaft, but those teeth have no curvature, unlike a helical gear. I think that this type of gear can be manufactured by cutting, and also can have more than 2 teeth in contact at any given time, resulting in a gear that is stronger and quieter than straight cut gears, and simpler to produce.
In a past career I was a motorcycle mechanic, and I have taken apart and reassembled my share of dirt bike engines, and they all have straight cut gears in the gear box. A few had slash cut primary gears. Gear failures are rare (excluding broken engagement dogs). I am not suggesting that a constant mesh motorcycle gear box is an even comparison for a SAAB gear box, but that helical gears aren't the only possible solution.
In my current career I repair fork lifts and other industrial vehicles, and helical gears are usually only seen in ring & pinion applications. Most gears are straight or slash cut. Since theses machines usualy have 1 or 2 speed ATMs or direct drive gear boxes, its still not a direct comparison to automotive gear boxes, but, broken gears are almost always the result of failed bearings, not over loaded gear teeth. And I would say that alot of fork lifts are run harder than rally cars!(and I like it that way,that is what keeps me employed!).

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DrewP
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Re: Strongest Gearbox Possible

Postby DrewP » Tue Jan 27, 2009 1:54 pm

Andy,

It turns out I spoke too soon! (and am now a little embarassed) Helical gear teeth can be cut on a low production basis. I just talked to one of our machinists here in the shop, and I'm going to check out a book or two and the section in Machinery's when I get a chance.

I think what you're referring to as slash cut gears involves using a spur / straight gear cutter (some that I have seen here look like a paddle wheel sort of deal with the cutting profile on each of the paddles) to cut helical teeth, but they might not be a true helical profile since the teeth don't curve as they progress around the gear. The book I just checked out says cutting like this works only with very narrow gears, but can have satisfactory results. The larger diameter the gear compared to the size of the teeth the better too.

I didn't realize that a hobbing machine could also imply cutting with single or multi-point rotary cutters, or by single point grinding to finished profile. The gear machines have built-in rotary axes like a 4th or 5th axis milling machine, except that you don't have to program the rotary feeds in degrees/sec to correspond to the linear feeds or anything like that.

Normally cutting helical teeth involved rotating the gear blank as the cutter moves across it's width, but with the slash-cutting if the gear's really narrow it'll work OK with a spur cutter.

Do you happen to have any photos you could post up? I have seen a few dog boxes from 600cc sport bikes apart, and now I can't remember what the helical teeth looked like, but you're right, most of them were straight if I remember right. A lot of FSAE cars use the stock 600cc gearsets in their cars making about 90-100whp with 7" wide road race tires and still rarely break gearsets even with clutch dumps for the acceleration event and such.

I will look into it some, I might not be able to get to it tonight though, but I found this on Google books, and Chapter 5 is a brief bit about gear manufacturing, Neil you'd like this too.

Handbook of Practical Gear Design

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Drew
"You can educate ignorance, but you can't fix stupid."

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Geoff
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Re: Strongest Gearbox Possible

Postby Geoff » Tue Jan 27, 2009 2:39 pm

A bunch of the figures in that book are courtesy of gear building companies in Springfield, VT. I think most of those places are closed now but at least one still exists. CrazySwede was in contact with a place in Springfield that builds custom gears and that is where the estimate for a large sum of $ came from to build the tooling to make custom helical gears. The gear builder also suggested making custom straight cut gears instead.
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