Man I love parts...

[Geoff]

New reply , new question.

Is there a recommended tool to allow you to remove the valve springs without removing the head? I've seen those big c-clamps things and since I've never R&R a head that has been on a car, I just don't know. Any recommendations for tools that work well on SAAB 8v or 16v heads?

Something like this?

I use a similar or the same tool to pull the valve springs on an 8v head with the head installed. Like Luke said you need to run compressed air into the cylinder to keep the valve seated. You'll get leak-down so you need to have a running compressor. There is another tool that I've seen photos of in the factory manual that looks nice and would make things easy. It works sort of like this one
except it fits a B engine head. I may get one of the above ones for 16 valves sometime. I don't think the above one would work on an 8v.

[Jordan]

So either way, would you recommend just getting a c-clamp type and pull the head, or try the other type with the airlock type holders. I have that 87 16v that I was going to practice on (and maybe steal the valve springs from for the exhaust). Later, I will have to replace the 8v with the double valve springs too so buying the fewest number of tools would be better. I also have to find a place to source b-motor head gaskets if I have to pull the head.

[Geoff]

just use the one you posted a picture of, avoid pulling the head unless there is a real reason to.
Tools you'll need (once you have the valve cover and cam off)
- Valve spring compressor
- compression tester adapter for spark plug hole on air line
- air compressor
- strong magnetic pick up tool (to remove the tapered valve spring locks)
- hammer/mallet (sometimes even when you compress the spring you need to whack it a little to get the top seat away from the two tapered valve spring locks)

If you don't have any of these tools, buy them, they're all useful.

[Luke]

I have that valve spring compressor tool for the 16v, it works well. You can get 99 gaskets from anywhere, they have them at autozone around here.

[Luke]

)
- hammer/mallet (sometimes even when you compress the spring you need to whack it a little to get the top seat away from the two tapered valve spring locks)

If you don't have any of these tools, buy them, they're all useful.

Yeah I highly recommend investing in the hammer

[Jordan]

)
- hammer/mallet (sometimes even when you compress the spring you need to whack it a little to get the top seat away from the two tapered valve spring locks)

If you don't have any of these tools, buy them, they're all useful.

Yeah I highly recommend investing in the hammer

I know, that wooden club I have just isn't cutting it. I think I have everything else already.

[Geoff]

One of these works really well for straightening the thick Swedish steel on tweaked 99 rally cars. 15 lbs of raw power ending in a sharp point.

Geoff and Seth give it the Team Gudmund Seal of Approval

[Jordan]

I did a lot today getting it back together with a few set backs. I spent a few hours trying to track down a tie rod nut and misc parts. Also, I found out the fuel injector seals are not quite the same on the b motor as the h motor, and I forgot to order exhaust manfold gaskets (the whole reason why I made my first order!).

I got a band clamp for the center section and am going to get the other parts of the exhaust welded tomorrow.I also got some 5" bolts which I'm going to try Lukes exhausts hanger idea with. And just to clarify the sandwich would go like this?

1. bolt
2. large washer
3. large shock bushing
4. car body
5. exhaust tab
6. valve spring
7. large washer
8. nut

[Luke]

Mostly right but the spring goes between the car body and the exhaust tab, you can also put a short spring underneath the tab if you want too, but that is optional, use locking nuts of some sort.

[Jordan]

That's what I had first... but the springs I thought would be kind of short. Does this only work then when there is a tunnel (with short valve springs ?) And you just snug it down so the spring has a little preload?

Anyway , I'll give it a shot later I think.

[Luke]

Yeah you don't have a use valve springs, actually they are a litte on the stiff side, but readily available. You can buy some slightly longer springs from the hardware store if you need a little more reach. I tuck the exhaust up TIGHT against the body, but that may not be as critical for your application.

[Jordan]

Ok last and final question (about exhausts ) So how many hanging points should I need? I was figuring one on the big muffler... then probably one on the tail? Is the muffler one necessesary?

[Geoff]

Do it like a stock 900T 16v (as a minimum). 2 on the large muffler before the rear axle, one on the tail pipe.

I used springs from a hardware store. They're chromed or zinc coated so they won't rust like valve springs.

[Luke]

Consider one near the junction of the header to the center pipe too. Thats where mine always failed till I added that mount. Build it so we can use it as a recce car!