Seems there is two methods of boxing in lower control arms.
1. Triangular sheets top and bottom as per the 9sport offering
2. Box the C-section into a full rectangle using a long narrow sheet
What are peoples opinions on these two?
Richard Miller (original car owner) chose the second option for my car. After last year's off at Rally TN, the passenger side was replaced with a stock unit. Just getting around to boxing in that one and trying to decide which way to go with it.
Robert Wright
#635 Saab 900 Turbo
Boxing Control Arms
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Re: Boxing Control Arms
I've done both at one time or another.
Also have a set that I did the top and bottom sheets and then I hole-sawed through both and welded a piece of tubing through it.
Then there was this one time I started doing the c-channel boxing thing...musta got into the PBR's and then top and bottom sheeted it too.
Those just ended up being really heavy.
Goal is to keep them from flexing and give a little more head room when it comes to folding up when you romp over stuff....but not so strong you start plucking huge chunks of unibody out when a boulder jumps out in front of you.
Also have a set that I did the top and bottom sheets and then I hole-sawed through both and welded a piece of tubing through it.
Then there was this one time I started doing the c-channel boxing thing...musta got into the PBR's and then top and bottom sheeted it too.
Those just ended up being really heavy.
Goal is to keep them from flexing and give a little more head room when it comes to folding up when you romp over stuff....but not so strong you start plucking huge chunks of unibody out when a boulder jumps out in front of you.
Rallyho
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Re: Boxing Control Arms
I typically just plate the top and bottom with 16g. I bend a tab up at 90° to reinforce the shock mount. It doesn't hurt to do some strategic welds while you're at it.
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- Jordan
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Re: Boxing Control Arms
You have to be careful of frame clearance there. Part of the pinch weld where the axle goes through dips fairly low and will contact that plate unless its clearanced or the area ground down.
Yes also welding a bead around the bushing blocks is a good idea too.
If you're welding it yourself, the last tip is to make sure the arms don't suck in where the ball joint goes, making it difficult to service. Bolt in a in a ball joint and a shim or two before welding.
Yes also welding a bead around the bushing blocks is a good idea too.
If you're welding it yourself, the last tip is to make sure the arms don't suck in where the ball joint goes, making it difficult to service. Bolt in a in a ball joint and a shim or two before welding.
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Re: Boxing Control Arms
I actually cut a slot for the lower pinch weld to clear. its not on the cardboard template.
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Re: Boxing Control Arms
I have had the pivot rod welds break loose on the 96. Like luke says add extra weld.
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Re: Boxing Control Arms
Jordan wrote:If you're welding it yourself, the last tip is to make sure the arms don't suck in where the ball joint goes, making it difficult to service. Bolt in a in a ball joint and a shim or two before welding.
Just want to quote this for emphasis. Our car has one arm, very nicely boxed by Squaab99t, who shimmed the ball joint slot (with hacksaw blades IIRC??), and the other, which was done by someone who didn't shim the slot. It is a total PITA to deal with the ball joint on that side.
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Re: Boxing Control Arms
Are the official SAABRally boxed arms still available for those of us who can't be trusted with a welder?
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