Show Us Your Skidplates!

THE place for technical discussions concering the construction and preparation of SAABs for all forms of motorsport, Rally, Road Racing, Auto-X etc....
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Luke
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Postby Luke » Tue Aug 07, 2007 3:30 pm

It definatly did its intended job. What we hit was the equilvalent of hitting an 8" curb at full speed. Several other teams hit this ditch and ripped complete wheels off or did an endo and rolled. My plan is to basically rebuild it as it was except instead of a the 1x2 steel crossmember it will have a x-member made of 2-3 pieces of 1" square 4130 steel.

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Geoff
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Postby Geoff » Tue Aug 07, 2007 3:39 pm

maybe run a plate between the side of the support tubes to the skidplate to triangulate the side of the skidplate.

like this cross section view
O\_
___

O = tube
\_ = triangulation plate
___ = skidplate (ignore the gap)

Then maybe some more cross members if they can be put in places where they won't whack the tranny if compressed?

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Jordan
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Postby Jordan » Tue Aug 07, 2007 3:43 pm

Is it possible to make the plate too stiff though? I mean it crumpled just enough without causing real damage to components...if its any stronger won't those forces be sent through the cars body as well as yours?

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Luke
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Postby Luke » Tue Aug 07, 2007 3:59 pm

jordan wrote:Is it possible to make the plate too stiff though? I mean it crumpled just enough without causing real damage to components...if its any stronger won't those forces be sent through the cars body as well as yours?


Yeah thats why my door didn't want to open after that. Any lesser of a skid plate and we would have been out of the rally 3.9 miles in on the first stage.

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Postby GRMPer » Wed Aug 08, 2007 7:13 am

Ahh, read the thread over on special stage...sounds like that dip should have been marked ditch..yikes.

any paint popped off your cage on the driver's side?

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Jordan
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Postby Jordan » Wed Aug 08, 2007 7:38 am

yeah... there was no official recce either. The caution paint I think was saved for the triple+ cautions.

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Postby GRMPer » Wed Aug 08, 2007 7:41 am

Yea, probably don't want to caution everything that's dangerous on those stages...some of them made me nearly poop my pants in 2006.

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Luke
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Postby Luke » Sun Aug 19, 2007 9:47 pm

Image

Thats the main rib thats made out of 1x2 1/8" thick box steel. I couldnt have bent it like that if I tried.

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Postby GRMPer » Thu Sep 06, 2007 7:12 pm

I'm working on my plate now..have the skis bent and I'm tacking them to the tabs that bolt to the new L shaped mounts that are welded to the body.

one question..how much or how little clearance w/ the downpipe? I've got the stock downpip on there now...would a header go down further or is it tucked further up? Looks like it's going to be a tight fit, as I'm trying to retain as much ground clearance as possible.

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Luke
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Postby Luke » Thu Sep 06, 2007 10:14 pm

I think the header will only extend down a little further than the stock pipe, as long as you give that some breathing room you should be ok. I have a 2.5" pipe down there and the main x-member of the car is still the low point, not the exhaust. Make sure you put some sort of padding between the main x-member and the skid plate, even some 1/2" softwood would be ok, just put something there with some give.

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Postby GRMPer » Fri Sep 07, 2007 12:34 am

Huh, ok, the downpipe is clearly the lowest point. I wonder if the motor mounts are a little sagged.

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Luke
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Postby Luke » Fri Sep 07, 2007 7:41 am

Thats weird, even on my first exhaust setup which wasnt as tight fitting as the current one the pipe was still about level with the x-member. I wouldnt think that the motor mounts would sag that much, maybe its just a poorly fitting aftermarket downpipe?


Image

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Postby GRMPer » Fri Sep 07, 2007 6:46 pm

On this car, it's about 1/2" down. Just enough to make it a PITA. oh well. It'll self-clearance :lol:


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