front spring removal

[saabfan9]

anyone have any pointers on getting the front springs out? i tried 2 different spring compressors the 1st one slid and that problably made me a little gun shy then i tried a 2nd set and it held to the point i didn't want to push it anymore...any tricks or tips or am i just being to much of a pussy?

[squaab99t]

anyone have any pointers on getting the front springs out? i tried 2 different spring compressors the 1st one slid and that problably made me a little gun shy then i tried a 2nd set and it held to the point i didn't want to push it anymore...any tricks or tips or am i just being to much of a pussy?

It is always a bit unnerving. I like my teeth and eye balls too. Did you take the shock off the Lower A arm? This lets the A arm drop more thus less coil compression required. I use the V clamp jaw style. I usually takes a couple tries to get it in the sweet spot to grab enough coils but not trap the tool. If you are really luck you have the Saab factory tool which makes it cake.
Beer helps too.

[saabfan9]

removed the shock i was thinking about the sway bar as well if this might relieve tension...another thing is i have to have the nut at the top because the threaded rod is too long and hits at the top of the wheel opening (upside down? if that makes sense)

[squaab99t]

removed the shock i was thinking about the sway bar as well if this might relieve tension...another thing is i have to have the nut at the top because the threaded rod is too long and hits at the top of the wheel opening (upside down? if that makes sense)

You are doing it right. It just takes an E'fin long time with a open end wrench. If you have a pivoting head ratcheting wrench it helps, but you might end up trapping the tool between the fender and the screw.
Here is Stephanturbo doing his 900c. Open end wrench on top.

[Jordan]

You might have to cut the threaded rod so you can do it from the bottom. That's what I did to mine.

[saabfan9]

might be a thought, i'll go at it again tonight..sooooo i guess it is just me being a pussy

[Cark]

I was able to get mine out with the cheap loaner tool from the local auto parts store. It's the pair of threaded rods with a hook on each end. Positioning is tight, and they don't fit perfectly 180 from one another, but I got both of my front springs out no problem. I agree... it is a bit scary with all that tension built up.

[SwedeSport]

I use the threaded rods with hooks on them.

They are incredibly dangerous, but work if you are careful.

[hutch]

I found these to be much easier to use and give much more peace of mind than the hook type:
http://www.amazon.com/Wilmar-W80555-Str ... 44&sr=1-18

And now it looks like they come in fashionable black:

http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-647089 ... sbs_auto_3

Like I said I feel much safer knowing that they are bolted to the coil and not just held on by tension. They can be fiddly to get lined up correctly but once you get the hang of it you can get a spring in and out in 30 minutes or so, of course its much easier if you are putting in shorter springs as Im sure you know.

[DrewP]

I usually unbolt the shock and ARB if fitted, and put a floor jack under the lower balljoint and compress the spring as much as I can with the jack (so the car just comes up off your jackstands) and THEN put the spring compressors on, so there is less time spent trying to compress the springs, and you get a better idea of how much the coils might collapse and how the compressor screws need to be positioned.

If you have a heavy friend who can sit on the front bumper while you do this sometimes you hardly have to turn the compressors at all once they are lined up.

Mine look like this, it's hooks that grab the spring coils but they have hitch pins that snap in place under each hook to keep the spring from walking out if they slip.

[Cark]

I usually unbolt the shock and ARB if fitted, and put a floor jack under the lower balljoint and compress the spring as much as I can with the jack (so the car just comes up off your jackstands) and THEN put the spring compressors on, so there is less time spent trying to compress the springs, and you get a better idea of how much the coils might collapse and how the compressor screws need to be positioned.

Mine look like this, it's hooks that grab the spring coils but they have hitch pins that snap in place under each hook to keep the spring from walking out if they slip.

Exactly what I used, and great advice on preloading the spring before putting the compressors on!

[SwedeSport]

You could always torch them into about 3-4 pieces to remove them. If you don't plan to keep them, they would probably end up in the scrap pile anyway.


Sometimes you can remove the lower perch at the pivot bolt. Doing this keeps you from having to compress the spring to get it over the hump and out of the seat. It just helps to get that little extra clearance.

[Mezzanine]

I found these to be much easier to use and give much more peace of mind than the hook type:
http://www.amazon.com/Wilmar-W80555-Str ... 44&sr=1-18

And now it looks like they come in fashionable black:

http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-647089 ... sbs_auto_3

This is what I use. I leave both A-arms bolted up and put a floor jack under the lower ball joint. Jack it up to compress the spring as much as possible and then bolt the compressors up.

As Cark says, you can't get them exactly 180 degrees from each other, but that hasn't been a big deal. If you're putting lowering springs in, then the install is very easy. Takes very little compression to put the shorter springs back in than it does to take the factory springs out.

[Mike D]

unbolt the shock, it will allow both controll arms to swing lower down