Camshaft Timing
- DrewP
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Re: Camshaft Timing
Where do you live? It's still possible to find good used engines for short money most places, and someone here might be able to point you in the right direction.
"You can educate ignorance, but you can't fix stupid."
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Re: Camshaft Timing
Other side of the pond: Europe
- DrewP
- Posts: 2084
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Re: Camshaft Timing
That should make it even easier. There were more of them sold there... At the very least yours is fixable with some eBay sleuthing and some labor on your part.
"You can educate ignorance, but you can't fix stupid."
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Re: Camshaft Timing
I am not worried about labor on my part. I actually like to work on my car (if it works afterwards ).
I found a complete engine for 650€ (tranny, head, block), the owner claims that it was running good. I am just waiting for an anser from the owner.
I found a complete engine for 650€ (tranny, head, block), the owner claims that it was running good. I am just waiting for an anser from the owner.
- Crazyswede
- Team Turbo Troll Crew
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Re: Camshaft Timing
TheAlien1980 wrote:I am not worried about labor on my part. I actually like to work on my car (if it works afterwards ).
I found a complete engine for 650€ (tranny, head, block), the owner claims that it was running good. I am just waiting for an anser from the owner.
Thats about $1000 USD. Could be a good deal if the transmission is good but it sounds like a healthy chunk of change for a used driveline. While the cars in the USA are getting old it still seems like we have a lot of parts around. Shipping an engine to Europe would be cost prohibitive unfortunately. You could probably just have a machinist take a look at your block and give you a quote for a bore and hone. You could likely just go up one or two ring sizes. While you are in there you could throw some new rod bearings in and do a regasket/reseal. I had a block bored and honed here in the USA and it cost about $250 USD which was on the high side but they did a nice job.
I am the 73%
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Re: Camshaft Timing
So this guy does not seem to answer me It's not easy to find parts over here. That was a lot easier back in the USA.
But I found this: http://www.elferink.nl/onderdeel.php?Alink=4311022&M=4&O=3&ArtNr=11022
I just had an idea. Is there actually a block that has a trigger wheel on the crankshaft which still fits a classic 900 turbo? So that I don't have to do something like this for T5.5 (only chance to do something like this would be now, since the engine is out):
I "stole" the picture from http://www.saablink.net/forum/performance-modifications-9000/28125.htm. I hope that's ok.
But I found this: http://www.elferink.nl/onderdeel.php?Alink=4311022&M=4&O=3&ArtNr=11022
I just had an idea. Is there actually a block that has a trigger wheel on the crankshaft which still fits a classic 900 turbo? So that I don't have to do something like this for T5.5 (only chance to do something like this would be now, since the engine is out):
I "stole" the picture from http://www.saablink.net/forum/performance-modifications-9000/28125.htm. I hope that's ok.
- squaab99t
- Posts: 1262
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Re: Camshaft Timing
TheAlien1980 wrote:I just had an idea. Is there actually a block that has a trigger wheel on the crankshaft which still fits a classic 900 turbo? So that I don't have to do something like this for T5.5 (only chance to do something like this would be now, since the engine is out):
.
Not that I am aware of. The OEM T5.5 were on transverse engine mounted cars like the 900NG and 9000. The 900c is longitudinal and has the cylinders kicked over at 45 degrees to clear the hood.
Another clue is that people would have used that block to do their 900c to T5 if they could. The trigger wheel for the 900c conversion is involved and usually costs cash for parts to work correctly. And we all know Saab guys would rather save the cash for beer.
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Re: Camshaft Timing
So, I got held up, as usual . But looking at the bright side, I found a block and head for 200€ from a formerly well runing engine . I will go and get it this weekend and overhaul the block and keep the head as a spare, since I already have nicely rebuilt head for now.
Downside is, I can only pick it up this weekend and I have only about 1-2 hours to remove all auxillaries and the automatic transmission from the block and head at the owner's place. The engine is already pulled out of the car from which it came from. I have seperated manual transissions a couple times before, but I have never removed an automatic transission. I know that it can be VERY tricky to seperate a manual transission from an engine if there is no working clutch master cylinder connected anymore. I searched the internet for tutorials on how to remove automatic transmissions, but I couldn't find much information. Are there any similar catches, like no hydraulic pressure on the master clutch cylinder on a manual transmission? Anything particularly difficult, that I should know about before removing an automatic transmission? Any good advice? I would apreciate it.
Downside is, I can only pick it up this weekend and I have only about 1-2 hours to remove all auxillaries and the automatic transmission from the block and head at the owner's place. The engine is already pulled out of the car from which it came from. I have seperated manual transissions a couple times before, but I have never removed an automatic transission. I know that it can be VERY tricky to seperate a manual transission from an engine if there is no working clutch master cylinder connected anymore. I searched the internet for tutorials on how to remove automatic transmissions, but I couldn't find much information. Are there any similar catches, like no hydraulic pressure on the master clutch cylinder on a manual transmission? Anything particularly difficult, that I should know about before removing an automatic transmission? Any good advice? I would apreciate it.
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