CPS Sensor gap - what SHOULD it be with the flywheel kit?

[DeLorean]

I have been playing with this for about an hour, and it isn't right. What should the sensor gap be for the flywheel CPS sensor gap? The thing works correctly with the Squab kit, but the flywheel sensor is behaving erratically for some reason. Is there anything other then sensor gap that might cause it to behave oddly? Too close a gap, and it won't start, and won't run. Too wide of a gap, and it starts, runs, but the ECU is not getting a consistent signal, and it starts to get worse the higher the RPM, almost like it's getting interference.

Ideas?

[Jon1]

According to the instructions that I got from Jordan, 2mm minimum. Perhaps the slots in the flywheel don't properly line up with the CPS. I have one car with a flywheel done by Dave Kennedy and one sourced thru eEuroparts, both work fine.

[hutch]

IIRC I have mine around 1.1MM as I installed it when the wisdom was to have a pretty tight gap, now it seems as though Jordan is recommending 2mm as Jon says. Mine works fine except for sometimes on first startup the engine will die immediately and have to be restarted, then its fine. I'm not sure if this is software or hardware but as I said it runs fine in all other circumstances. I was actually going to experiment with bringing mine out a bit so maybe I'll give that a shot tonight.

What distances have you tried? It unfortunately seems as though theres enough variance with different sensors and setups that it will be a little different for everyone but 2mm should get you in the ballpark.

[gmreider]

My two cents - I use 2 mm (.080") . I tried anywhere from .8 mm to almost .100 ". The only consistent operation I have is @ 2MM. I even setup a my Fluke meter to watch the wave pattern and it was very inconsistent under 2MM.
However , I did have a NEW crank sensor that started the car some times quickly and then not so quickly and then died and never started the car again. I replaced it with a used sensor and have not tried the replacement new sensor. All the sensors that I used where OEM .

I was going to put both the Flywheel pickup and Dennis Lin's external pickup wheel on my Red car and at the last minute did not. Redundancy may not be a bad idea. Some days I think that there is a lot more to be learned about our T-5 conversions then we have discovered to date.

[DeLorean]

It seems like for some reason I just am not getting a good clean signal off the flywheel. I can get it to start up fine, but it wants to break up at various RPM ranges depending on where I gap it. Best bet does seem to be at 2MM, but at that range it runs OK at start up, idles, revs freely, but as you hit 4500-5000 RPM it starts breaking up and won't go above that RPM.

Gary, feel like coming over and checking some wave patterns? Otherwise, my "double redundancy" will be to re-install the squabworks thing on the back of the engine, which I am not looking forward to.

[Jordan]

Usually that 5k breakup means it is slightly too close and the sensor is getting over-saturated. Try bumping out a bit. I've found some variances depending on the flywheel , sensor and computer, but 2mm usually gets it pretty close.

[Crazyswede]

In T5 and T7 cars the pickup sensor is mounted into the side of the block and reads a tone wheel mounted onto the crankshaft. The wheel is smaller diameter than the flywheel and rotating towards the sensor as opposed to a side view. How does the waveform on the stock compare to the flywheel setup?

[Jordan]

the facing rotation is pretty much the same, it's the high density of the flywheel vs. just the stamped steel tone wheel that affects how the sensors internal magnet works and how much current is generated as the wheel spins faster.

[Jordan]

the facing rotation is pretty much the same, it's the high density of the flywheel vs. just the stamped steel tone wheel that affects how the sensors internal magnet works and how much current is generated as the wheel spins faster.

[DeLorean]

I had a DURRRRR moment. 2MM gap, and remembering to PLUG the map sensor in, and now..... it works.

To my credit, it was electrically plugged in. It also had the line plugged in. the line fell down behind the engine, and I neglected to plug it into the manifold! And now, I am taking a break from working on this for a little bit.

[Jordan]

Nice! :)

[squaab99t]

Got to have that hooked up for it to know where to look on the map. Did you not have a high idle with the vacuum leak or did the AIC and ignition map mask that?

[gmreider]

Got to have that hooked up for it to know where to look on the map. Did you not have a high idle with the vacuum leak or did the AIC and ignition map mask that?

Wow ,So that's why it called a MAP sensor ? Good to see that Delorean is up and running. we need all the SAAB presence we can get this weekend @ Polish mountain Hill Climb. Looks like we have 4 classic 900's running in the Hills of western Maryland.
We will post a race report soon !

Just had another thought. Did you ever wire the OBD2 test plug and check engine light. I suspect we could have discovered something with the tech 2 or even a generic code reader? Gllad it was something basic.

[DeLorean]

Yep, I have the OBD2 port & check engine light are wired. As for the Map sensor. well... thing is the engine was getting swapped along with a whole bunch of other things. I had a single popper vacuum fitting in the bushing that should have had a double, so there was no leak, and no cause for me thinking "hmm, what plugs in there"

And... the initial test drive went great. The first drive away felt kind of sluggish, however the gearing is kooky with this thing now, does 45 in 1st, and over 65 in 2nd. 4th is for engaging the "warp drive" - that maxes the spedo around 5300RPM, and it wants to pull a lot further than that. Also, the LC1 was saying I was running around 8.0 or below AFR's Autotuned that down quite a bit, into the 11's and it really scoots right along now that the AFR's are not stupid rich. Odd having traction in 1st in this car, but it has it now, on my street tires! Even trying to induce wheelspin, unloading the outside wheel going to WOT it just hunkers down and pulls around the corner. This will take some adjustment of my "driving style" - but I think I'll get there.

Nothings leaking, nothing blew up even after a pretty harsh tuning run, and my China-man TD04 19t Turbo is holding up, got it glowing bright red. I'll probably try and put a hundred miles or so on it tomorrow and get some work done that will actually make money for a change, and see how it does under some normal driving. I call this thing good to go.

Oh, and the damn external centering thing I have basically doesn't work! I think that has actually made it harder to find 3rd than it would be if I didn't even have the stupid thing, and I have it set up exactly as it says to in the service manual... That's the only thing about this Frankensaab that basically hasn't worked, so... I guess I'll take it.

[Cark]

Similar question, but slightly different....

I'm looking to find out EXACTLY where the shutter wheel should line up with the CPS when at TDC. We had my motor and trans out the other day for a swap, and when we put the new clutch and flywheel on and had everything at TDC, the shutter wheel in relation to the CPS seemed off to me. I know the V2 kits Squaab/Dennis made had some issues with timing being off a few degrees, and I've always suspecting mine of not being right. If anyone has a picture that would be great!

Basically mine lined up on about the 21st metal tooth, just after the 20th opening (past the 2x slot of course). At 60 slots, each one equals about 6 degrees of timing, so if I'm off a half or a full tooth, I'm off by 3-6 degrees So I would love to know exactly what tooth or hole or whatever my CPS should line up with at TDC. Thanks.