2.0 rebuild...help,overwhelmed

[saabfan9]

man you guys are crazy...let me get home tonight and try some things.....do I need that special tool to pull the water pump?

oh yeah now I am feeling more overwhelmed should have left her alone

anyone have a pressure sensor?

[Crazyswede]

Yes you need a water pump puller

[Jordan]

I put those parts in a handy kit so you don't have to buy the 50 pack of o rings you need two for...
http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/58606/E ... 101K10101/

[saabfan9]

hey guys thank you for the tip with the vice grips I squeezed two of the tabs and was able to get it all apart...got the rear cover off and cleaned and I got the deck all clean and ready

I see that link for the water pump says '75+ is there a difference with my early '73 (12-72 build date)?

just came in from the garage and wanted to share the good news..at least it feels like I made some progress i'll get some pics in the morning

[Jordan]

At the time the catalog only went back to '75. Read geoff s link to show you the differences in the different style of water pumps

[DrewP]

The bearing, seal, and washers and everything are the same between all the pumps, it's just how the impeller is held on, and whether the shaft has 8-teeth or 12-teeth.

[Geoff]

The earlier water pumps also have a brass cage in the block that everything mounts into.

The brass cage has some O-rings associated with it (two visible on the outside, not sure if there are any others). The brass cage is the only real difference. The water pumps will actually interchange between earlier and later engines, you just need to use the brass cage on early engines.

Sometimes the brass cage stays in the block when you pull the pump. If that happens I'd leave it there because it's soft and if it didn't pop out with the pump it likely won't come out without getting damaged. They don't seem to be easy to locate replacements for either.

If the cage comes out of the block you'll have to source O-rings to re-seal it. That's pretty easy to do, you just measure the ID of the block, OD of the O-ring groove in the brass cage, and width of the O-ring groove (mostly for reference). You should be able to order those if not available locally.

[saabfan9]

Thanks guys i'll do some home work this weekend....I didn't remove the housing yet because I don't have parts lined up but it seems like she's stuck on the block good

also what is considered early and late?

[saabfan9]

the initial set up on the timing chain tensioner? I replaced with a MGB one .... is it just oil pressure that pushes it out?

[Crazyswede]

Tensioner should just be a spring. Might have a pin you have to pull once the chain is in place to release the spring.

[saabfan9]

got it...I went on the mgb forum and there was the same question....she's coming along though much slower than expected.....hey I'm looking for an old D-jet manifold pressure sensor ... any manufacturer will work (VW-MB-Porsche-Volvo)

[DougM]

I'm sorry I missed this conversation. The beauty of the 73-74 clutch removal is that you can use the clutch fork to compress the pressure plate fingers. You loosen the 19mm jam nut and use a 8mm open end wrench to screw in the threaded rod with the ball on the end of it. This will move the fork and the throwout bearing in, compressing the pressure plate fingers. Insert any suitable material to keep the fingers compressed as you thread the rod back out.

[DrewP]

LOL

We all just gave Chris quite the roundabout there....