I told myself when I sold the 16V homologated B-motor that I would use a portion of the money to promptly replace it with a nicely built 16V NA B202 with all the choice bits. Well, after buying a house, building a CNC router and rebuilding a 1948 Willys CJ2A here I am two years later without a motor for the rally car...
For two events we ran an 8V B-motor that I bought used from an old ralliest. It was great fun, but we learned the hard way that the compression ratio was designed race gas and it was underpowered at times.
The idea was to build up highly reliable engine that could spin upper RPM all day and night, with moderate HP and a moderate price tag. So, I've been collecting parts all the while and finally got the chance to start putting them together over the last few weeks.

I started with a fresh bore of a 2.1 block to 94mm.



and a "T5" head modifed for the B202 and with a fresh skim and a valve job.

The stock SAAB connecting rods while strong, are also extremely heavy, and especially when using a much lighter forged piston, overbuilt.
I began looking for lighter options and stumbled on the fact that Toyota 22RZ connecting rods (as used in 90's Tacoma and Hilux) are nearly identical in every dimension to the SAAB B202 rods. Same big end bore, same wrist pin size, same width, O/A legth with 0.5mm. Aftermarket options are available at a very affordable cost, so I ordered a set.



Everything looked dandy until i looked at the bearing lock tabs. Toyota put them backwards to SAAB, ugh. I couldn't use the toyota bearing either because the journal size was larger on the toyota, The SAAB bearing is much thicker...

So I decided the easiest thing to was to cut new reliefs to use the SAAB bearings.




Here you can see the original toyota lock below and the new relief for the SAAB bearing above.

And he's back......

I likey the Toyota rods!

What do they weigh compared to the B202 rods?

DrewP wrote:I likey the Toyota rods!

What do they weigh compared to the B202 rods?

I don't have the weights handy, but combined with the new pistons and tapered wrist pins, etc, the assembly is very nearly 1/2 the weight of stock.


The pistons are custom made by ROSS, 94mm forged, flat top and adjusted to match the ever so slightly longer rod.




All lined up and ready for assembly:

Nice!!! This will be the engine I never built for my 99 "GLi-16"!

I hope this translates to Luke getting back on the stages.

SwedeSport wrote:I hope this translates to Luke getting back on the stages.

I hope so too!

So if I read this post correctly, you purchased " aftermarket" Toyota Rods? They are not OEM rods? If so they sure look nice. Good going Luke, you work it all out and we will be glad to copy all of your work. I for one will give you all the credit !!
Get it done and come out and "paly with the rest of us" Going to be a Good SAAB year !
P.S. Are you going to N/A T-5 or going with carbs ?

gmreider wrote:So if I read this post correctly, you purchased " aftermarket" Toyota Rods? They are not OEM rods? If so they sure look nice. Good going Luke, you work it all out and we will be glad to copy all of your work. I for one will give you all the credit !!
Get it done and come out and "paly with the rest of us" Going to be a Good SAAB year !
P.S. Are you going to N/A T-5 or going with carbs ?

That's correct, the rods are aftermarket for the Toyota engine.
I'll most likely use T5 or use the old programmable electromotive system that I was using on the turbo motor, both run off a 60-2 trigger, so I'm going to setup the crank trigger so that the timing wheel can be flipped to the deg (BTDC etc) required for either system.

Speaking of the crank pulley, this is the one that I will be using:



Hard to tell from the picture, but compared to the stock pulley this one is just a wee little guy. The idea is to slow down the power steering and the water pump to prevent cavitation at constant high RPM. This came in a box of goodies that a friend brought over from Sweden. We've especially had issues in the past with the power steering, the stock pump is geared for good power at idle speed in parking lots, so after a few stages the fluid looks like a cappucino and all power assist is lost.

That's a nice chunk of metal. Does it have 2 Alternator / water pump grooves and a P/S pulley? Looks like aluminum, but could be iron?
Would make a nice winter lathe project or farm it out on CNC.

Luke

Could I get the measurements on that pulley? As Im thinking about making a aluminium version in sice small for my projekt :-)
Any problems in runing without the rubber dampering do you think?

aero84 wrote:Luke

Could I get the measurements on that pulley? As I'm thinking about making a aluminium version in sice small for my projekt :-)
Any problems in runing without the rubber dampering do you think?

It was supposed to be for an H motor, but I think the one I got was actually for a B motor, as I had to modify it a bit to clear the oil pump. I don't think the lack of rubber will be an issue, solid pulleys are commonly used on a lot of high performance 4 cyl engines. besides at this point, the "rubber" on the most of the original pulleys has realistically pretty much turned back into a solid substance.
I got it from these guys: http://www.kyrkmotorsport.se/ They had an aluminum and a steel version, I opted for steel since it was a bit cheaper and I thought it might have a longer life on the oil seal area.


You can see it in the background of this pic: Its got 3 pulley grooves.

Hi Luke

Thanks, I know of the Kyrk guys, and have seen there pulleys. They have nice stuff
I need one for my H engine with a single groove pulley, so Im going to make it my self

I love it. blows my mind the 22r rod is that close in size... I've had plenty of those motors as well..

if my circle track motor lacks power I may dig into my stock bottom end and do something similar.