Did I see on the forum a diff, driver, side cover plate assembly here somewhere?

Here are a few:

This design is interesting

Thanks folks. Some very interesting parts indeed.
Seems to be reinforcing the rhs only. The gears' vector (forces) cause failure typically that side only?
Ross, didn't yours blow out both, but that was a ring and pinion failure?

squaab99t wrote:Thanks folks. Some very interesting parts indeed.
Seems to be reinforcing the rhs only. The gears' vector (forces) cause failure typically that side only?
Ross, didn't yours blow out both, but that was a ring and pinion failure?

Yes, the diff wants to leave through the passenger side. doesn't mean the drivers side cannot fail though.

With the ring gear on the right side closer to the right side bearing, there is a larger moment on that bearing than on the left, which has a longer moment arm to take the thrust loading.

If something get's chewed up and binds the whole thing explodes of course, but I've only ever seen cases cracked on the right side.

How much abuse can modified boxes like these take over a stock one?

Not talking about drag races all day, but normal street driving with say 350hp+ and 500nm+ and giving it the beans from time to time.

The case also gets very thin where the selector shaft goes through above the driver...definetely the weak point. I think that it is ususally caused by some sort of outside interference or pinion failure. I'm not sure if shear torque would do that.

Krizzie wrote:How much abuse can modified boxes like these take over a stock one?

Not talking about drag races all day, but normal street driving with say 350hp+ and 500nm+ and giving it the beans from time to time.

That is my plan. Right now I have a stock 89 5 speed box. I believe it has the larger pinion bearing. 2nd. 3rd and R/P are shot peened. Quaife LSD and it holding together at 305 whp on the Dyno. That said the fwd and tires will limit how much power you get to go thru the gearbox. Put sticky slicks ties on and you will bust them. The girdle is a stopgap to replacing it with a whole new configuration, uprated drivetrain.
To answer your question, not sure if anyone knows as these our not our designs and testing unknown. Correct me if I'm wrong folks.

Running a Stock LPT box (GM45614) with a Steel diffcover and Type 8's now which does really well with 216whp and 334wnm. (dyno'd, probably a bit more outdoors)

But I'm looking for a more modern replacement turbo for my TE05. The GT2860RS sounds like a nice candidate, but I'm not sure my box agrees with that.

It's a nice turbo, but certainly packs a punch. As an intermediate step you could go with the larger turbine Volvo variant TD04s they pretty much bolt up and offer a lot of performance over the Te05

I won't be pushing the GT28 to it's limit. 300 crank hp and 450 to 500nm (high revs) is fine.

The TE05 feels like a log down low and is out of breath at around 4500rpm (though T5 keeps it at 1 bar till red line, but the torque is gone then)

I'm looking for better drive-ability down low and more fun at high revs. :)

TD04 doesn't feel like much of an upgrade over a Garrett BB to be honest. Both need new lines and modifications to the exhaust. With the Garrett I can go full 3" intake and exhaust (5bolt to 3" v-band wastegate flange) to keep restriction to a minimum.

No question that the GT turbo is a better turbo. I have a 2.1 head/intake with the volvo 16T td04. It definitely breaths way better and has legs all the way up the RPM range and beyond. I can't comment on drivability since it's on a race car, so hard to compare apples and oranges.

The TD04 16t on my SPG (hillclimb car) which does see street use has spool up that in my opinion is just as good as a Te05 and probably better than a T3. The only thing with that is it seems to be able to create a LOT of low down torque, especially on a cold day, which probably isn't the best thing for drive line parts. I bet with T5 and that turbo the car makes more than double the low end torque it did from the factory.

Ok guys, I have a Garrett GT 28RS BB on my hill climb car that I can and do drive on the street. It acts totally tame and puppy like, but when you give it some throttle and RPM it gets really quick. I really think you can use that turbo on the street. It is worth the money and time it takes to make up the plumbing and 3 inch intake. I have a 2.0 motor with 9.0 compression , a big front mounted intercooler and a 3 inch turbo back exhaust and T-5 of course, nothing real special. I have run various boost levels and 1.0 bar will be plenty for the street. 1.3 or 1.4 bar makes it even faster. Ask Delorean how my car runs on the street or Swedesport. They have both driven the car.